Canadian Rockies Hiker

with The World Outdoors (www.TheWorldOutdoors.com)

(July 2003)

Introduction

I had planned to do the Canadian Rockies and Glacier-Waterton Hikes last year, but had to cancel these two hikes when I fell and dislocated my right elbow. Therefore, I was really looking forward to these hikes this year. Then less than two months before the trip I went to the doctor for a problem I was having with my right leg when I went to bed. It didn't bother me when I worked out or anytime during the day, but within 10 minutes of laying down I was in terrible pain that eventually even went into my low back. I found out I had illilotibial band syndrome which is caused by overuse of the involved muscle and was told to stop exercising and had to have therapy. I was not able to start exercising again until 3 weeks before I left for the hikes so I was not in good shape for the hikes. Thus, I was even slower than usual and although my leg didn't bother me much my back hurt a lot so I didn't really enjoy the trip as much as I wanted to. 

Since the trip is in Canada, The World Outdoors has to use Canadian guides so the two guides were independent contractors with TWO instead of employees but they still had the TWO training and operated the trip in the same manner. They did a good job and were superior to any guides I have had with other hiking companies but they were only average with regard to the TWO guides I have had on other trips--and I have now had a total of 10 different TWO guides. 

There are 4 adjoining national parks in the Canadian Rockies--2 in Alberta (Banff & Jasper) and 2 in British Columbia (Yoho & Kootenay) plus there are two smaller national parks in British Columbia that are not adjacent to the others--Glacier and Mount Revelstoke. Also Kootenay, Banff, Jasper and Yoho national parks, together with the British Columbia provincial parks of Hamber, Mt. Assiniboine and Mt. Robson, comprise the Canadian Rocky Mountain Parks World Heritage Site, one of the largest protected areas in the world.

On this trip we hike in 3 of these parks--Banff, Jasper, and Yoho.

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I flew into Calgary on Saturday and took a Rocky Mountain shuttle to Banff. I arrived about 10 pm and met The World Outdoors guides and the rest of the hikers at noon the next day so I didn't have much time in Banff. I did walk several blocks down the main street (Banff Avenue) Sunday morning--saw a parade, did a little shopping, & took some pictures.

I saw these 3 peaks from the Rocky Mountain Shuttle on the way to Banff

Banff…At 1384 m (4540 ft) above sea level, Banff is "Canada's Highest Town". On Banff's bustling main avenue, virtually every language from German and Japanese to French and Spanish can be heard. Yet only minutes away from all the action, a quiet walk along the banks of the Bow River reminds you that the town is located inside Canada's premier national park and is a United Nations World Heritage Site!

view of Cascade Mountain down Banff Avenue

this mountie was directing traffic for a parade and stopped and posed for pictures with his daughters

view of Banff from an observation point

picture from an overlook the guides took us to at the end of the trip

baby mountain sheep we saw on the way to the overlook

In the fall of 1883, three Canadian Pacific Railway construction workers stumbled across a cave containing hot springs on the eastern slopes of Alberta's Rocky Mountains. From that humble beginning was born Banff National Park, Canada's first national park and the world's third. Spanning 2,564 square miles of valleys, mountains, glaciers, forests, meadows and rivers, Banff NP is one of the world's premier destination spots and is located in the Canadian Rocky Mountains on the Alberta side of the Continental Divide. It is situated 80 miles west of Calgary via the four-lane, year round Trans Canada Highway.

Today, Banff National Park is one of four adjoining mountain parks comprising more than 7,813 square miles of spectacular Canadian Rocky Mountain landscape: (1) Banff, (2) Jasper, (3) Yoho, (4) Kootenay. Banff National Park is a year round playground in the Canadian wilderness that offers everything from 7,558 acres of downhill skiing/snowboarding terrain to hundreds of miles of mountain trails.

map of Banff NP

We started at Moraine Lake which is actually not a glacially moraine but a rockslide from the mountain. We could see Fay Glacier from the trail almost constantly and then we entered the Valley of the Ten Peaks and had a cooperative passerby take a picture of the 10 of us against the backdrop of as many of the 10 peaks as would fit in the lens. Most of us stopped at the twin lakes but Johanna, Reed, Blake, and Carolee decided to "book" it to the top of the pass and they did a VERY good job of moving.

The valley was VERY beautiful and was an excellent introduction to the Canadian Rockies!

Moraine Lake is one of the Rockies true gems. Formerly on the Canadian $20 bill, it was formed by a landslide from the surrounding Tower of Babel. The valley features a crystal clear blue-green lake, a valley hemmed in by ten lofty mountain peaks, and a hanging valley of larches beneath the third highest mountain in the Canadian Rockies, it's little wonder that Moraine Lake rivals Lake Louise in scenic grandeur and fame.

Carolee & myself with some of the Ten Peaks in the background

the 10 of us in the Valley of Ten Peaks

most of us stopped at this lake but Blake, Reed, and Johanna went all the way to Sentinel Pass and Carolee made it most of the way

views as we walked back through the valley

Moraine Lake is visible from the trail through the trees

Deer Lodge at Lake Louise

Victoria Glacier above Lake Louise

Lake Louise with Mt. Victoria & Victoria Glacier reflected in it at 7:20 am Monday

Then we drove a short distance and stopped and had an excellent picnic lunch with pecan pie for dessert.

After dessert we entered Jasper National Park, met a naturalist guide, and began our hike to Wilcox Pass. A guide with a special permit is required for this area. Kirsten stopped several times to explain things to us and when we got to an overlook of the Columbia Ice Center, Athabasca Mountain, Mt. Andromedia, Athabasca Glacier, Snow Dome, Dome Glacier, and Mt Kitchener she stopped and explained the whole area to us. The info included the fact that at one point there is a hydrological apex--some of the water flows into a river that eventually reaches the Arctic Ocean, some flows into a river that reaches the Atlantic, and some the Pacific. We also saw a Ptarmigan family here--a mother hen and 2 small chicks.

me at Saskatchewan Glacier

(Cree for Swift Current)

This glacier, the longest tongue of ice flowing from the massive Columbia Icefields, is clearly visible from the summit of Parker's Ridge. This textbook example of an outlet valley glacier drains the Columbia Icefield and forms the headwaters of the North Saskatchewan River.

peak that looks like Yosemite's Half Dome

Half Dome lookalike with zoom

map of Jasper NP

The Columbia Icefield is the largest accumulation of ice south of the arctic circle. Straddling the boundaries of Banff and Jasper National Parks, as well as the continental divide and the boundary between Alberta and British Columbia, the location is very unique. The icefield is made up of approximately 130 sq mi of glacial ice that reaches a maximum depth of 1,200 ft. The average snowfall on the Columbia Icefield is 23 feet per year, with an average elevation of 10,000 ft. The highest point on the Icefield is Mount Columbia at 12,284 ft. Six large outlet valley glaciers flow from this main body of ice. They are the Athabasca, Saskatchewan, Dome, Columbia, Castleguard and Stutfield Glaciers. The Columbia Icefield also represents the only three-way continental divide in North America. From the summit of Mount Snow Dome, waters flow to three separate oceans, the Atlantic, the Pacific and the Arctic. The only other similar divide is in northern Siberia. Scientists call this the "hydrographic apex of North America," quite simply the center of the universe as far as all the water in North America is concerned.

left to right: Mt Athabasca, Mt Andromedia, Athabasca Glacier

L-R: Athabasca Glacier, snow dome, Dome Glacier, Mt Kitchener

snow dome, Dome Glacier, Mt Kitchener

Athabasca Glacier

As part of the Columbia Icefield, the Athabasca Glacier represents one of six major glaciers that flow off of this enormous accumulation of ice. In area, the Athabasca Glacier covers 6 square kilometres (2.5 sq. mi) as it stretches 6 km (3.75 mi) down the valley. Its depth varies from 90 to 300 m (270-1,000 ft). The glacier moves 125 m/year (400 ft) at the headwall, but only 25 m/year (80 ft) at the snowcoach turn around and a paltry 15 m/year (50 ft) at the toe.

Stone Crop

This is one of over a hundred glaciers that can be seen along the Icefields Parkway. Years ago, this glacier resembled a crow's foot, with 3 large toe-like extensions. The lower 'toe' of this foot has receded so much that only 2 toes remain.

me, Carolee, & Linda

Johanna & Allyson

Western Anemone or Hippie on a Stick

a marmot

Helen Lake looking toward the ridge we climbed to see Dolomite Pass

Dolomite Pass

Dolomite Mountain

(it looks like a submarine)

Helen Lake & the trail as seen from the ridge

Ally stepping across the small creek to get set up and help others across

Indian Paintbrush

Bow Lake & Crowfoot Glacier

Stone Crop

Kicking Horse Lodge in Field, BC

As you can see from the map Yoho is small and borders Kootenay and Banff. It was established in 1885 and is located in British Columbia on the Rockies' western flanks. Yoho contains some of the most sublime scenery in North America with a landscape of deep forests, icy glaciers, wild rivers, pure lakes and an abundance of wildlife. The Trans-Canada Highway which bisects the park from east to west and some of the most intriguing history of the region surrounds the building of the Canadian Pacific Railway through the 1800 meter Kicking Horse Pass - a stretch of line between Wapta Lake and the town of Field. We stayed in Kicking Horse Lodge in the town of Field two nights.

Yoho, along with Jasper, Kootenay and Banff National Parks and the British Columbia provincial parks of Hamber, Mt. Assiniboine and Mt. Robson form the Rocky Mountain Parks World Heritage Site - one of the largest protected areas in the world.

The word Yoho is the Cree word expressing awe.

This 507 sq. miles national park is filled with gem colored glacial lakes and waterfalls, snow-covered peaks and dense forests. Historic railroads, spiral tunnels within mountain sides and steep rock faces where mountain goats roam are just some of the sights to be seen. Other Yoho marvels include a natural rock bridge over the Kicking Horse River, Hoodoos, some of Canada's highest waterfalls and the Burgess Shale fossil find where over 120 marine animal species dating back as far as 530 million years were discovered. Yoho's craggy peaks and steep rock faces posed an enormous challenge for Canada's early explorers. The mountains that were the curse of railway builders are responsible for the park's many waterfalls including Laughing Falls, Twin Falls, Wapta Falls and Takakkaw Falls, Canada's highest at 1,650 ft. Silt carried by streams from melting glaciers high on the mountains is responsible for the deep, rich turquoise color of Emerald Lake and Lake O'Hara. The high peaks of the Continental Divide wring out the precipitation remaining in clouds moving eastward from the Pacific Ocean. This creates pockets of wet belt forest where coastal species such as devil's club, western red cedar and western hemlock thrive.

map of Yoho NP

We parked near the base of Takakkaw Falls and hiked the avalanche slope on the other side of the Yoho Valley. Our first view was Whiskey Jack Falls. We climbed a series of switchbcks ascending to the Iceline Trail and could hear the thunder of the falls and look across at ever-changing views of the 1,000+ foot falls all the way. At the edge of the avalanche slope the trail entered old growth forest much as yesterday's trail as some of the Engelmann spruce trees are 300-400 years old. We climbed higher than the brink of the Takakkaw Falls and could see the waterfall's source, Daly Glacier.

We ate lunch below two small glaciers. Then returned but took a turnoff that took us to Yoho Lake. There we took our boots and socks off and waded into the water. The rocks were hard to walk on but the cold water felt very good. We then hiked around the small lake and returned to the Falls where we walked across the bridge and right up to the falls. In total we hiked about 12 km.

Takkakaw is said to be the Cree Indian word for "awesome" and it truly applies to this 1,650 foot falls. The stream is born from the Daly glacier. It runs a mere quarter of a mile, then plunges straight down more than a thousand feet into the Yoho Valley. A protruding ledge near the top makes the water explode out from the cliff face before falling free almost to the base. The setting in the great glacial valley of Yoho is spectacular. The height of the falls makes the water seem to arrow down in slow motion. The sound of the falls is a rolling thunder, waxing and waning with the wind.

It is the highest falls in North American with Yosemite Falls being the highest at 2,425 feet. However, most waterfalls in high mountain regions including Yosemite have their peak in the spring or early summer, when the snow is melting. But Takkakaw is fed mostly from a glacier, which warms and releases water only very slowly. So Takkakaw gains in volume all through the summer, until the first hard freezes it in September.

we crossed the road & climbed the ridge leading up to the Iceland Trail opposite the Takkakaw Falls

from part way up the opposite ridge

Takakka Falls & the Daly Glacier that is feeding the falls

Emerald Glacier

me & part of the Emerald Glacier

Takakkaw Falls from across the Yoho Valley where we ate lunch

one of the views from our lunch stop

you can walk right up to the falls & in the afternoon mist you can frequently see a rainbow

Instead of doing the O'Hara Lake hike we drove to Emerald Lake, hiked around most of Emerald Lake then up to Emerald Basin. It was a beautiful 12 km hike, and we had a close encounter with a female moose, saw a helicopter dumping water on a smoldering forest fire, and lucked out and got back to Field at just the right time to see a freight train enter the Spiral Railroad Tunnels in Kicking Horse Pass.

A classic glacier-fed mountain river, the Kicking Horse displays a variety of features which show how glacial rivers modify their mountain landscapes.

Here the river is carving a canyon into bedrock. The natural bridge was formerly a waterfall. But as water found its way through cracks in the rock it gradually enlarged them, cutting a new channel.

Today, except at extreme high water, the river flows beneath the top of the former waterfall, leaving it suspended as a bridge. Over time the passage will deepen, and eventually the bridge will collapse, creating a gorge.

Water flows through time and wears down mountains. In the moment of our lifetime we see but a part of the process. Yesterday's waterfall is today's bridge, becoming tomorrow's chasm.

On the last day we drove to Emerald Lake which was discovered in 1882 and is a beautiful lake that is often seen on picture postcards. On the shore is the Emerald Lake Lodge that the Canadian Pacific Railroad built which now caters to tourists from all over the world. We ate dinner there Thursday evening.

We hiked around the lake which is only 3.1 mi. but we extended the hike by hiking up to Emerald Basin when we were about halfway around the lake.

As we were hiking Johanna was in the lead and had gone around a corner when she yelled once and came running back--a moose was right behind her and left the trail and stopped after running about 50 feet off to the side. She just stood there looking back at us as we took her picture. Then she turned around and started running back toward us and we left the area quickly. The guides got their cans of bear mace out just in case and said that evidently she was separated from her calf.

Our 2nd exciting event was seeing a helicopter fly over the lake, lower a huge bucket to fill it with water, and then fly over the adjacent forest and dump the water. When we rounded the open end of the lake we got some great pictures, and Elly talked to a ranger who said there had been a lightning strike 2-3 days before and someone had noticed it was still glowing so they were dowsing the whole area with water.

Shortly afterwards we started the 2.9 km. climb up to Emerald Basin. It was a nice hike and we had lunch beside the river with the toe of Emerald Glacier visible to the right and a twin waterfalls visible to the left.

Twin Waterfalls

Emerald Glacier

view at lunch stop

Emerald Lake

After years of being thwarted by the height of the Rocky Mountain passes and the steepness of the western slopes, and against all engineering advice, railway officials chose Kicking Horse Pass as the route across the Great Divide. In 1884 the line was blasted through Yoho, creating the infamous 'Big Hill', a vertical drop of 275 meters in only 6.4 kilometers. The first train to descend met with disaster. Brake failure going down the hill was so serious a danger that three safety switches leading to steeply inclined spurs were installed and downgrade trains were required to stop at each switch to prove the train was under control. In many cases, runaway trains had gained such a momentum by the time a safety switch was reached that instead of being diverted, the train jumped the tracks. Runaway trains became so common that four whistle blasts was the well-known warning for trains careening out of control.

The only viable solution was a pair of figure eight spiral tunnels - nine kilometers of track looped out to curl round on themselves, passing through Mount Ogden and Mount Cathed that sit astride the route. The Spiral Railway Tunnels, which required 1,000 men two years to complete and involved the excavation of 63,713 cubic meters of rock, were completed in 1909 - the only ones of their kind in North America. They are visible from an overlook at the summit of the pass. The two Spiral Tunnels were built so as to increase the length of the railway track in its ascent of the pass, thus reducing the grade to 2.2 percent. From the east, the track enters Tunnel No. 1, 3,206 feet in length, turns under Cathedral Mountain at an angle of about 250 degrees on a 573 foot radius, passes under itself and emerges at the opposite portal 54 feet lower. Tunnel No. 2, under Mount Ogden, has a similar radius through an angle of 232 degrees; it is 2,890 feet long and the grade produces a difference in elevation of about 45 feet between portals.

Thus the railway traverses the valley by three lines at different elevations, and crosses and re-crosses the Kicking Horse River by four bridges. Two engines can now haul a bigger load up the valley than the four previously used. The two tunnels are a perfect maze, for the railway doubles upon itself twice and forms a rough figure "8" in shape. If the train is run in two sections, passengers are able to see the other section making its way up "the big grade" at a higher or lower level.

here you can see the end of the train is still entering the tunnel at the bottom while the engine & front of the train is coming out of the tunnel at the top

Thursday evening we went back to Emerald Lake to have dinner at the Emerald Lake Lodge

After everyone changed their clothes we drove to a nice picnic area and had "pesto" pizza for lunch. We got to Banff about 3:30 and drove up to an overlook for an excellent view of Banff and saw several Bighorn female sheep and two lambs alongside the road.

everyone is getting the wet suits & life jackets, etc. on for Whitewater Rafting on the Kicking Horse River

for pictures of other vacations return to the Vacation Photos page