Yosemite National Park

Yosemite National Park with The World Outdoors (www.TheWorldOutdoors.com) (September 2003)
Introduction Note: This is a continuation of the Kings Canyon and Sequoia trip--we hiked two days in Kings Canyon, one day in Sequoia, and three days in Yosemite. I had been to Yosemite on my own in 1994 and I combined those pictures with the pictures that I took on this visit.
Yosemite National Park In 1994 I flew into Reno, Nevada, rented a car and drove to Yosemite via the Tioga Pass. I spent 5 nights in a cabin at Curry Village then returned to Reno where I joined a New England Hiking Holidays group for a tour of Lake Tahoe. I took the 2-hour open tram tour of Yosemite Valley, the 8-hour Grand Tour which included Glacier Point and Mariposa Grove, a 2 hour horseback ride to Mirror Lake, and two all day hikes--one to upper Yosemite Falls and one up the Mist Trail to Vernal and Nevada Falls and then down the John Muir Trail. Later I found out about the Panorama Trail and was sorry I hadn't done that trail. I loved Yosemite and always wanted to return so in 2003 I returned with The World Outdoors Yosemite Sierra Tour. The main reason I chose this tour was because it included the Panorama Trail. However, I feel that there are still many things to see in Yosemite and would like to return again! Each of the above maps give you useful information about Yosemite. The first map shows the 4 gateways to the park--3 on the western side and 1 on the eastern side. The 2nd and 3rd maps show the park itself with the first map stressing the major scenic views and the second map stressing the roads and naming many of the camp sites and streams. The fourth map shows the facilities in Yosemite Valley which consist mainly of the Curry Village, Ahwahnee, and Yosemite Lodge lodging facilities, Yosemite Village, and Visitor Center. Also each red number represents a bus stop for the free shuttle buses.
this granite dome sits beside the Tioga Road and had climbers on it when I drove in	pictures of Yosemite 1) click on a thumbnail picture to view a larger image 2) right click on the larger image to save the picture 3) click on your Internet Browser's Back arrow to return to this page		this closeup shows one of the climbers and some of the ropes they were using
Tenaya Lake Tenaya Lake is named for Chief Tenaya, a local Miwok chief, and is one of the most beautiful lakes of the Yosemite high country. It is on the Tioga Road at the east end of Yosemite Valley & a few miles west of Tuolumne Meadows. The lake is evolving into a meadow and dries up by summer's end.		Olmsted Point Olmsted Point is a scenic turnout on the Tioga Road. A short hike from the turnout takes you to a granite hill, from which in one direction you can see Tenaya Lake a couple miles to the east (see previous photo). In the opposite direction you can see the rugged Tenaya Canyon and Half Dome as seen in this photo.
the back of Half Dome as seen from Olmsted Point	The eastern part of the park features high mountain wilderness.	Tuolumne Meadows is located 55 miles from Yosemite Valley via Tioga Road and is a broad, flat grassland of abundant summer wild flowers that is a popular starting point for back country hikes. At an elevation of 8,575 feet it is accessible from about mid-June through October.
Bridalveil Falls This falls drops 620 feet in a virtual free fall from the lip of Bridalveil Canyon, a hanging valley which was created by glaciers. When the glaciers disappeared, Bridalveil Creek was left suspended far above the valley floor. The Ahwahneechee called this place Pohono, "spirit of the puffing wind." The wind swirls about the cliff, often lifting the falling water and blowing it from side to side in a delicate free-fall. Although Bridalveil Fall appears to be small when seen against the surrounding canyon walls, it is actually 620 feet high. The black color is a parasite that thrives on the moisture on the cliff. The Falls are located on the south wall near the entrance to the valley; its base can be reached via a short spray-drenched footpath. By late summer, the 620-foot fall diminishes to a gossamer curtain of wind-blown water.
		El Capitan El Capitan is second only to Half Dome as a recognizable Yosemite landmark. This unbroken block of granite--the largest in the world--stands guard over the western end of the valley rising 3,593 feet from the valley floor. Its vertical face provides climbers with some of the most challenging "big wall" routes in the world and is one of the best places to observe climbers in the park. It usually takes 3-7 days to climb El Capitan and the climbers sleep on a small ledge held by pitons they pound into the rock. A former park ranger paralyzed from the waist down climbed it in 7 days--equivalent to 1,000 pullups for 7 days.
Tunnel View El Capitan on the left & Bridalveil Falls on the right with Half Dome in the background (park immediately after exiting the .8 mile long Wawona Tunnel)		similar view from valley floor	same view in late afternoon
Yosemite Falls Yosemite Falls drop 2,425 feet in three sections (upper, 1,430 feet; middle, 675 feet; lower, 320 feet) making it the tallest waterfall in North America and fifth highest in the world. A 3.6 mile (one-way) trail with an elevation gain of 2,700 feet takes one to the brink of the Upper Fall with outstanding views of the valley along the way. The Upper Yosemite Falls are a magnificent sight at any time of year, but especially so during the time of maximum snow melt in late spring. They are the 7th highest in the world, or part of the 5th highest if the lower falls are included. The falls are visible for several miles up and down the valley as Yosemite Creek emerges from miles of gentle meandering across the Eagle Creek meadows north of Yosemite valley and cascades over the towering granite cliffs to meet with the Merced River far below. Such is the height of the falls that the water fans out during its descent and returns to earth in a series of pulses and wind-blown spray, covering quite a large area. Lower Yosemite Falls drops from a rocky ledge on the N side of Yosemite Valley to the flat forested land below, after which the creek flows gently through the woods for a few hundred yards and joins the Merced. The falls are hidden by trees and only when close can a good view be obtained.

The Upper Yosemite Falls trail climbs steeply for 1/2 mile and gains 1,000+ feet. Columbia Rock offers the first good view of the valley and is a good target for a short hike.		Upper Yosemite Falls from the Trail
bridge over Yosemite Creek just above the falls	view from the bridge looking at the drop off	At the top, after a hike of 3.6 miles and an elevation gain of nearly 3,000 feet, the land flattens out quite abruptly and a stark landscape of scattered trees with much exposed rock stretches out ahead. You can continue an extra mile east on a path that ends with a series of steps cut into a rockface to a viewpoint (Yosemite Point) directly above the falls
view of valley from Yosemite Point	view of trail on the way down	Is a sequoia a redwood? What is the difference between sequoias and redwoods? The giant sequoia, a member of the redwood family, has a column-like trunk, huge stout branches, and cinnamon-colored bark. Its scientific name is Sequoiadendron giganteum. It is sometimes called the Sierra redwood. The taller more slender coast redwood, Sequoia sempervirens, has the kind of profile and branch structure associated with most conifers. It is named for the color of its heartwood, not its brownish bark. A third species, the dawn redwood, is native to China.
Mariposa Grove and Wawona Giant sequoia trees are the largest living things on earth and are among the oldest. Yosemite's Grizzly Giant has a huge 30-foot-thick trunk, is 2,700 years old (700 years older than Christ), stands as tall as a football field is long, and has survived many major climate and environmental changes in the last several thousand years. This tree lives among the Mariposa Grove of giant sequoia, near the Wawona region of Yosemite, just inside the southern entrance of the park or about 1.25 hours south of Yosemite Valley via Highway 41. I took a tour bus to Mariposa and it included a tram tour of the Grove and a ranger-led walk. Yosemite has three groves of sequoias, the largest being the Mariposa Grove with over 600 trees, some with trunks 40 feet in diameter and limbs the size of mature pine trees. The two other groves, the Tuolumne Grove and Merced Grove contain only 29 and 20 respectively of the cinnamon-colored behemoths. Wawona was once an Indian encampment and later was the site of a wayside hotel built by Galen Clark. In 1875, the Washburn brothers built the Wawona Hotel that is still in operation today. The Pioneer Yosemite History Center, is near the park's South Entrance Station.
The Grizzly Giant	The Bachelor & The 3 Graces	The California Tunnel Tree	The Clothespin Tree
The tunnel in the Clothespin tree was created by fires. However, sequoias are very good at surviving forest fires. Near the base the bark may be 12 to 18" (30 to 45 cm) thick; however the bark on the limbs is very thin. Also the soft, fibrous bark is fire resistant and protects the growth layer from periodic fires ignited by lightening. Intense heat generated by the accumulated debris at the tree's base, along with the effect of repeated fires, can breach the bark. However, the tree's water-based sap also enhances the tree's heat tolerance. Burn scars and the blackened, hollow trunks of some older, yet healthy, trees attest to the many fires that have burned through the groves over the centuries.
The Wawona Tunnel Tree became world-famous when an opening was cut through the tree in 1881. For the next 88 years, people came, first in stages and then in automobiles, to ride through this tree. As a result of wet snow, soggy soil, high winds, and perhaps combined with the weakening of the tree from the tunnel, the tree toppled in the winter of 1968/1969. You can still visit this fallen tree, and you can still walk through this California Tunnel Tree that was carved out in 1895 that is located near the Grizzly Giant.
The Faithful Couple 2 trees grew together & became one tree	The Telescope Tree	looking up inside the telescope
Young Sequoias Giant sequoias sprout only from seeds--seeds so small and light they resemble flakes of oatmeal. The delicate seeds are produced in cones that take two years to develop. Giant sequoias often retain the green cones alive on the tree for up to 20 or more years. Outside forces, such as fire, insect larvae, and squirrels, are required to help the tree disperse its seeds. Contact with the ground does not assure the seeds will germinate. Seeds contain little energy, producing a tap root that is not more than one inch (2.5 cm) long. If this tiny root fails to reach mineral soil, it will be unable to transport the nutrients and water necessary to keep the sequoia sprout alive. Sequoia saplings grow to their maximum height in several hundred years. At this time, they are conical, like an upside-down ice cream cone. The limbs often grow along the entire length of the trunk. After reaching their maximum height, the trunks begin to grow outward more quickly. The bark thickens, the lower limbs fall off, and the trunk expands to form the shape of a huge column. In addition, the crown of the tree rounds and the large limbs become craggy in appearance.
a sugarpine cone & 2 sequoia cones sugarpine cones are VERY large and can weigh 5 pounds but sequoia cones are about the size of an egg	The Wawona Hotel we stopped here for lunch on the tour	Ponderosa Pine note the distinctive pattern of the bark	a covered bridge in the Frontier Village on the grounds of the Wawona Hotel
a mule deer on the Wawona grounds	Glacier Point From Glacier Point, 3,200 feet above Yosemite Valley, a stupendous vista stretches out for many miles north and east, over the forests and meadows around the Merced river, the enclosing cliffs and lofty domes, and across the many higher mountains in the distant wilderness areas of the National Park. In one direction, Vernal and Nevada falls are clearly visible, along the course of Little Yosemite Valley. A little way north is the steep canyon of Tenaya Creek, the two separated by the distinctive shape of Half Dome. Opposite the viewpoint, Upper and Lower Yosemite Falls cascade 2,400 feet down the sheer cliffs, and far beneath cars and even people can be seen, moving slowly along. Glacier Point is reached by a paved, 16 mile road that forks west from CA 41 at Chinquapin Junction, 8 miles south of the Wawona Tunnel entrance. The road is fully open from June to October, with limited access for cross-country skiers during winter. There is also a Four Mile Trail, that links Glacier Point with Southside Drive in the valley below. Glacier Point, some would say, is the most spectacular vista anywhere. Most people agree that its views of the high country and breathtaking views of Yosemite Valley, including Half Dome and three waterfalls--Yosemite Falls, Nevada Falls, & Vernal Falls--are the most spectacular in the park.
Half Dome from Glacier Point	closeup of Half Dome	Liberty Cap, Nevada Falls, & Vernal Falls from Glacier Point	Tenaya Canyon from Glacier Point
adjacent valley from Glacier Point	Yosemite Falls from Glacier Point	closeup of Yosemite Falls	Nevada & Vernal Falls from Glacier Point
Yosemite Falls from the Valley Floor	Half Dome at Sunset from Curry Village		left blank on purpose
An Ahwahneechee Tale of Half Dome Long ago, two travelers, Tissiak and her husband, Tokoyee, fought with each other. He became so angry that he began to beat her; enraged, she hurled her basket of acorns at him. As they stood facing each other, they were turned to stone for their wickedness. The acorn basked (Basket Dome) lies upturned beside Tokoyee (North Dome) and the rock face of Tissiak (Half Dome) is stained with her tears. A Geological Explanation of Half Dome Millions of years ago the granite block of Half Dome was larger, but there never was a matching half. Undercut by glaciers near the base, slabs of rock fell away from a broad vertical crack in the granite, leaving a sheer face. Remnants of the missing rock still project from Half Dome's rim. There are more granite domes here than in any other place in the world. Massive granite domes form when large curved layers of rock "exfoliate" or slab off.
view of Royal Arches, Basket Dome & Washington Column from Curry Village	Indian Village & Museum The Yosemite Museum, next to the Yosemite Valley Visitor Center, has displays that interpret the cultural history of Yosemite's native Miwok and Paiute people from 1850 to the present. Demonstrations of basket-weaving, beadwork, and/or traditional games are presented. Behind the museum there is a reconstructed Indian Village that represents the National Park Service's interpretation of the Miwok culture 20 years after initial contact with non-Indians. The Indians in Yosemite referred to themselves as "Ahwahneechee" and the valley itself was called "Ah-wah-nee" which means deep grassy valley.
this statue depicts a Miwok chief	this Miwok dwelling is called u-mu-cha -- it is made of pine and cedar posts lashed with grapevine and shingled with incense-cedar bark	this type of house began to dominate the Miwok village by the 1890s - it is made from cut lumber and fashioned after a pioneer cabin but it still retains a smokehole in the center of the roof over the firepit
Half Dome from Sentinel Bridge	Upper Yosemite Falls	Lower Yosemite Falls	Yosemite Chapel
Merced River from Swinging Bridge	Three Brothers Lower Brother, Middle Brother, & Eagle Peak (7,779 feet)	this is the point we started our hike to Taft's Point	approaching Taft's Point
Taft's Point	me at one of the observation points	Yosemite Valley with El Capitan jutting out on the right	Wendy & Shawn fixing pizza for lunch
closeup of El Capitan	looking at the 2 valleys	looking down one of the chasms that are present at Taft's Point	scarlet red trumpet
Sentinel Dome we were suppose to have an opportunity to hike to the top of this Dome but first one reason was given as why we couldn't and then another reason so those of us who wanted to never got the opportunity the trail went around to the other side for the ascent & according to the Guide Map the view from the summit of Sentinel Dome is even more spectacular that the view from Glacier Point		Tunnel View	all 9 of us in a group picture at Tunnel View
a closeup of Half Dome at Tunnel View	a closeup of El Capitan at Tunnel View	left blank on purpose
The Panorama Trail was the highlight of the trip and was the main reason I selected this trip as I have wanted to do the Panorama Hike ever since I learned about it on my first trip. You can start it in Yosemite Valley and hike UP or start at Glacier Point and hike DOWN into the valley. I hiked up to Nevada Falls on my first visit and wouldn't have wanted to continue on to Glacier Point so down is the way for me. It is indeed full of panoramic views including close-up views of three waterfalls--Illilouette, Nevada & Vernal. The trail continues down the Mist Trail and ends at Happy Isles in the Yosemite Valley.
me at the beginning of the Panorama Trail & a side view of Half Dome	view of Liberty Cap, Nevada Falls, & Vernal Falls at the beginning of the hike	Vernal Falls but by mid- to late summer it narrows and separates as shown here into 1, 2, or 3 small falls as water flow decreases	a view of the back of Half Dome
Illilouette Falls - 370 feet This is easily the least appreciated major fall in the valley, largely because it is the only one not visible from any road	Wendy & Illilouette Falls	Half Dome	Wendy & Illilouette Creek
Nevada Falls looking down from the top in September 2003	this was the view from the top in June 1994 when there was more water coming over the falls		looking down the valley from the top of Nevada Falls
looking down at Merced River	Nevada Falls (594 feet) Left: from the Muir Trail in 2003 Right: Liberty Cap & the falls from the Muir Trail in 1994 notice the difference in the water flow late in the summer (2003) & early in the summer (1994)
The one view of Nevada Falls seen above is the only time you see Nevada Falls from the John Muir Trail and you don't see Vernal Falls until you get to the bridge near the bottom of the trail. However, on the Mist Trail you descend right beside Nevada Falls and the mist from the falls actually gets you wet on a windy day when there is a lot of water going over the falls. Then when you come to Vernal Falls you again descend right beside the falls. This time there are about 600 granite steps that you descend and again the mist from the falls gets you wet. I climbed UP the Mist Trail in 1994 and came down the Muir Trail so I am familiar with both trails. The Muir trail is about a mile longer but it is much easier. It has gentle switchbacks and doesn't have all the rocks and steps you have to negotiate on the Mist Trail. Nevertheless I'll take the Mist Trail over the Muir Trail any day for its fabulous beauty!
these are all views of Nevada Falls from the Mist Trail
me at the top of Vernal Falls	Merced River below the Falls	Vernal Falls (317 feet) from the granite steps beside the falls	Vernal & some of the trail going up beside the falls
	the mist & some of the approx. 600 steps you climb or descend beside the falls	Vernal Falls & a Rainbow

On Friday, our free day, I caught a YARTS (Yosemite Area Regional Transportation System) bus right at the Yosemite View Lodge at 7:23 and paid $4 for transportation and entrance to Yosemite. I reached Yosemite Lodge at 8:11 and for $15 took the bus up to Glacier Point again (I called and made reservations the evening before). When I got to Glacier Point this time I hiked down in the other direction via a trail called the Four Mile Trail although it is really 4.6 miles. Again, it was downhill because the bus does the hard work and takes you UP to Glacier Point. Some people hike the complete round trip, but it is definitely worth $15 to me to avoid hiking the same trail twice and I would much rather hike down than up--although they have put a lot of asphalt on the trail and asphalt with loose dirt and leaves on it is very slippery. The views were very good. There were many good views of the valley and specifically views of Half Dome, Yosemite Falls (Upper, Middle, & Lower Cascades), Cathedral Spires and Cathedral Rocks, El Capitan, Royal Arches, Merced River, and Three Brothers. It took me a little under 3 hours to hike down the trail, then I hiked about another mile back to Yosemite Village and specifically the Village Store where we were all meeting prior to lunch.
Half Dome it sticks up so high it is visible from just about anywhere and is THE SYMBOL of Yosemite	Yosemite Falls & Yosemite Valley - this view would be awesome when there is a lot of water in the falls	Merced River snaking through the valley with Cathedral Rocks on the left and El Capitan on the right	Cathedral Rocks & Cathedral Spires
	Royal Arches & North Dome with a view up Tenaya Canyon	another view of Royal Arches
Yosemite Valley is only 7 miles long and less than 1 mile wide. As 1996 came to a close, Mother Nature did some Spring cleaning and scrubbed Yosemite Valley with a wall of water. The 1997 flood swept away hundreds of picnic tables, anti-bear food lockers, resident housing, bridges, and cars. The Merced river crested eight feet above flood stage and eroded away Highway 140. Yosemite Lodge suffered damage and the historic chapel was submerged. Bears woke from their hibernation to snack on food freed from the lockers. To add insult to injury, in March a rock slide hit Happy Isles, the start of the Nevada Falls trail, for the second time in a year. Surveying the devastation, the park superintendent said, "The Valley will never be the same." Secretary of the Interior Bruce Babbitt announced that flood damage to Yosemite National Park was so widespread and severe, that the cost to fully repair and restore the park could run as high as $178,053,000. This estimate was based on a comprehensive assessment of visible flood damage and estimates for moving facilities to more suitable locations. After closing for 2 1/2 months, the Valley re-opened March 14. Park administration used the flood as an opportunity to make changes. Half the campsites and one third of the buildings had been destroyed, and it was decided that many would not be rebuilt, and the land returned to nature.			I close with one more picture of Half Dome & the Merced River
for pictures of other vacations return to the Vacation Photos page