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Grand Canyon Rim to rim with Timberline Adventures (www.timbertours.com) (May 2004) |
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Introduction
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The Grand Canyon: Information and Geology
The Grand Canyon is 277 miles long, up to 18 miles wide, and more than 5,000 feet deep. A spectacular section of the canyon, together with plateau areas on either side of it, are preserved as the Grand Canyon National Park. The Canyon cuts steeply through an arid plateau that lies between about 5,000-9,000 feet above sea level. Although lacking year-round streams in recent years, it is sharply eroded, showing such characteristic forms as buttes, interspersed with old lava flows, hills composed of volcanic debris, and intrusions of igneous rock. The plateau area has a general downward slope to the southwest and in its upper reaches is sparsely covered with such evergreens as juniper and piņon. Parts of the northern rim are forested. Vegetation in the depths of the valley consists principally of desert plants. In general the entire canyon area has little soil. The climate of the plateau region above the canyon is severe, with extremes of both heat and cold. The canyon floor also becomes extremely hot in summer, but seldom experiences frost in the wintertime.
The Grand Canyon has been sculpted in general by the downward cutting of the Colorado River, but other factors have also played a part. The Kaibab Plateau, which forms the northern rim, is about 1200 feet higher than the Coconino Plateau, which forms the southern rim. Water from the northern side has flowed into the canyon, forming tributary valleys, while the streams of the southern plateau flow away in a southerly direction without carving valleys in the canyon walls. The underlying rock beds also have a south-western slant, with the result that groundwater from the north finds its way into the canyon, but water from the south does not. In the entire canyon region, the rocks have been broken by jointing and faulting, and fractures in the rocks resulting from these processes have contributed to the rapid erosion of the gorge. Apparently the river began its work of erosion about six million years ago. Coupled with the downward cutting of the river has been a general rising or upwarping of the Colorado Plateau. Although the canyon itself is of comparatively recent origin, the exposed rocks are not. Most of the strata were originally deposited as marine sediment, indicating that for long periods of time the canyon was the floor of a shallow sea.
In a typical section of the canyon, toward its eastern end, nine separate rock layers can be seen, piled vertically like a stack of pancakes. The topmost layer is the Kaibab limestone. Below this layer is a thick deposit of sandstone, called the Coconino sandstone, and below that a layer of soft, shaly rock known as the Hermit shale. Still lower is a series of shales and sandstones interbedded with each other, collectively termed the Supai formation. The fossils found in the Supai and the rocks above it suggest that these rocks were all deposited in the Permian Period, at the end of the Paleozoic Era, from 225 million to 280 million years ago. However, the Supai may be slightly older still. Next comes a deposit of light gray-blue limestone, the Redwall limestone, which in many places has been colored red by seepage from the Supai beds above. The Redwall is 500 feet thick and is easily identified because of the prominent sheer cliffs that it forms in the canyon walls. This layer has been identified as belonging to the Mississippian Period (360 million to 330 million years ago). A thin layer of sandstone, the Temple Butte, beneath the Redwall, gives evidence of having originated in the Devonian Period (410 million to 360 million years ago). The next three rock layers, consisting of the brown Muav limestone, the green Bright Angel shale, and the Tapeats sandstone, all belong to the Cambrian Period (570 million to 500 million years ago), at the dawn of the Paleozoic Era. Beneath these layers, at the bottom of the canyon, are the most ancient rocks of all, Precambrian schists and gneisses, from half a billion to a billion years old.
My Rim-to-Rim Hike with Timberline Adventures
I have been to the Grand Canyon several other times--I have hiked to the bottom on the Bright Angel trail then ridden through the canyon on a large pontoon raft for four days, I have taken a one-day mule ride down from both the south and north rims, I have hiked part way down from both rims with The World Outdoors and have wanted to do the rim-to-rim hike for some time. When I found the Timberline Tour it sounded great, and I was not disappointed--it was fabulous!
The first map shows the highway access to the North Rim. From Zion National Park we drove through Kanab and Fredonia to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. Unlike the over-developed south rim, there are relatively few facilities here. Accommodation options include an 83-site campground and some log huts, scattered around the neighboring forest. From the lodge a short paved trail goes to Bright Angel Point, the most popular observation point on the north rim which has good overlooks of Roaring Springs Canyon and Bright Angel Canyon far below. The north rim is on average 1,000 feet higher than the south and is several miles back from the Colorado River.
The second map shows the roads inside the park and the location of some of the features in the canyon. We stayed at the Grand Canyon Lodge for one night in small log cabins. My room had a double bed and a single bed plus a bathroom with a shower, stool, and basin. We had an excellent dinner in the dining room with views of the canyon out the windows then had breakfast at 5:30 am in the auditorium the next morning as the dining room wasn't open that early. We had plenty to eat and packed our lunches then went back to our rooms to load our luggage in the van. Then we drove about two miles to the North Kaibab trailhead. Two Timberline guides drove the van around to the south rim while the rest of us started the rim-to-rim hike. Unfortunately Marty had twisted his ankle hiking up Humphrey's Peak near Flagstaff and couldn't do the rim-to-rim-hike so he rode with the guides to the south rim. The extra day of rest enabled him to hike down from the south rim and meet us at Indian Gardens.
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view of the back of the lodge from a walk along the rim |
pictures of the Rim-to-Rim Hike 1) click on a thumbnail picture to view a larger image 2) right click on the larger image to save the picture 3) click on your Internet Browser's Back arrow to return to this page (the arrow will look similar to this one)
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view of the canyon & part of the lodge from the walk |
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dining room |
one of the log canyons |
the North Kaibab trail sign |
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The North Kaibab Trail
The Paiutes, called the canyon Kaibab, or "Mountain Lying Down" and the easternmost plateau where Grand Canyon Lodge and major trailheads are located on the north rim is now called Kaibab.
The North Kaibab Trail provides the only maintained route from the North Rim of the Grand Canyon to the Colorado River--it is 14 miles long with a descent of nearly 6,000 feet. It is longer than the popular south rim routes as the buttes, peaks and side canyons extend much further north of the river than south, hence the paved entrance road along the flat Kaibab Plateau cannot approach as close--from the north rim visitor center it is over 6 horizontal miles to the Colorado whereas the south rim road is often only 2 miles away. As a consequence, the river only becomes visible near the end of the North Kaibab Trail and most of the views are of Bright Angel Canyon rather than the main gorge.
The North Rim offers an experience very different from that of the South Rim. Elevations 1,000 to 1,500 feet higher result in lower temperatures and nearly 60% more precipitation. Rain and snowmelt have cut deeply into the North Rim so that it is now about twice as far back from the Colorado River as the South Rim. Due to the higher elevation of the north rim--8,300 feet at the start of the path--the immediate area is quite densely forested, and the pine trees persist for some way down, providing welcome shade from the sun. The first five miles are the steepest, descending along the edge of Roaring Springs Canyon and crossing a seasonal stream several times; the Springs themselves do indeed roar and can be heard before they come into view.
Beneath the springs is a small visitor complex and more stables (the mules travel no further), which are reached by a short side-track; this location is the usual destination for an all day round-trip hike. The main trail continues past a private residence with public drinking water (which is also available 3 miles from the start of the trail), as Roaring Springs Canyon meets the much larger Bright Angel Canyon. The path crosses Bright Angel Creek across a small bridge and rounds Manzanita Point after which the inner Colorado gorge - to where the trail leads - can be seen in the distance.
Bright Angel Canyon continues almost straight, descending gradually for 7 miles to the river; for overnight hikes, the primitive Cottonwood Campground is located a few miles after the bridge, however places are limited and a (free) permit is required. At the river, the path joins the South Kaibab and Bright Angel trails, allowing for a rim-to-rim crossing of the canyon - the record time for the complete trip (21 miles minimum) is apparently under 4 hours although most people attempting the journey camp for at least one night. |
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Maps of the North Kaibab Trail As shown in the profile map at the RIGHT the trail is steeper at the top--in the 6.9 miles to Cottonwood Campgrounds you descend 4,170 feet but in the 6.9 miles to Bright Angel Campground you only descend another 1,600 feet for a total descent of 5,770 feet |
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note the trail starts in the Roaring Springs Canyon & then moves into the Bright Angel Canyon |
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here the trail passes the Cottonwood Campground & the short side trip to Ribbon Falls |
here the trail passes through the Box (a granite narrows), passes the Clear Creek Trail junction and finally reaches Phantom Ranch |
Roaring Springs Canyon Roaring Springs Canyon with the South Rim far in the distance and the Coconino cliffs on the right - this Coconino Overlook is reached after about 1.5 miles
trail as seen from Coconino Overlook |
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Supai
Tunnel the Supai Tunnel is reached at the 2 mile mark and was carved out of solid rock to allow the passage of the trail through a difficult section. |
trail just beyond the tunnel
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 general view of the trail shortly after the tunnel |
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view as I got closer to the bridge across Roaring Springs Canyon |
Redwall Bridge |
picture taken from the bridge |
left blank on purpose |
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Roaring Springs is one of about six places in the Grand Canyon where water gushes out of a hole in the Redwall. The name is appropriate as the sound can be heard from the overlook at Bright Angel Point on the rim 3,000 feet above. |
Water from the springs is the source of Bright Angel Creek and is piped by natural pressure to Indian Garden, and then pumped to the rim as the water supply for Grand Canyon Village. |
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 the guide told me the name of this flower but I don't remember it - I do remember that he said it is poisonous |
House of the Roaring Springs Caretaker--he is an artist and allows hikers to get water & use the facilities |
we were too early to see the century plants (agave) in bloom but you can see they should be spectacular |
Bright Angle Creek near Ribbon Falls |
I didn't take the optional 1.5 mile round trip to the falls because my toes were hurting a lot and I didn't want to do any extra hiking so I got this picture of Ribbon Falls off the internet so I could see what I missed. |
first bridge over Bright Angel Creek |
Bright Angel Creek |
another bridge on the trail |
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section of the trail in the Box - a long & generally VERY hot granite narrows |
another short section in the Box |
last bridge on North Kaibab before Phantom Ranch |
Clear Creek Trail Junction |
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map showing approach to Phantom Ranch |
map of Phantom Ranch area |
the Cantina/Dining Room/Office |
the Dining Room (they had 2 seatings for breakfast & dinner to accommodate everyone) |
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cabins for the mule riders |
cabins for hikers |
Ranger Station and view on the trail to the river |
Bright Angel Campground |
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sunrise is changing the colors in the canyon
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Bright Angel Creek was named by Major Powell and his crew in 1869 on his first expedition through the Grand Canyon. This clear running stream stood in contrast to the muddy Colorado River and most of its other tributaries. Powell was not the first to utilize this camp. He came upon the ruins of "two or three old houses, originally of stone laid in mortar." They were the remnants of the homes of Anasazi Indians who had farmed and hunted along this delta some 700 years before. The ruins dated by archaeologists at AD 1100 can be seen about 200 yards west of the Black Bridge alongside the trail. |
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Bright Angel Creek enters the Colorado
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The Silver Bridge serves two functions. It is a crossing for hikers and it supports the transcanyon waterline. Although the Colorado River is the source of water for seven states, it is not the direct source of water for the Park. The pipeline beneath the bridge brings water by gravity flow from Roaring Springs below the North Rim to the pumping station at Indian Gardens. Construction on the transcanyon water system began in 1965 and was completed in 1970 despite a disastrous flood that swept down the Bright Angel Canyon. |
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unknown flower |
Silver Bridge this bridge connects with the Bright Angel Trail
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closeup of silver bridge |
Silver Bridge in the foreground with the Black Bridge that leads to the South Kaibab trail in the background |
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Bright Angel Trail The Bright Angel Trail is one of the two superhighways of the Grand Canyon, the other being the South Kaibab. It has the advantage of offering a considerable amount of shade (depending on the time of day) and water is available at the 1.5 and 3 Mile Resthouses and again at Indian Garden and the River Resthouse. Toilets are available just beyond the 1.5 mile resthouse, at Indian Garden and at Bright Angel Campground.
The Bright Angel Trail was originally an Indian trail used by the Havasupai Indians to commute between the rim and Indian Garden. The trail was improved by prospectors in the late 1800's, and Ralph Cameron extended the trail from Indian Garden to the river and began to charge a toll of $1. The Park Service constructed the South Kaibab Trail shortly thereafter to provide tourists with a free access path to the river.
Mileages are as follows (one-way from the South Rim):
Elevations:
There are some petroglyphs along the top stretch of the trail near the first tunnel. The Bright Angel Fault is also quite obvious along this section of trail. This is not as obvious at the top of the trail as you descend through the Kaibab and Toroweap formations but is very obvious at the contact between the Toroweap and Coconino . After passing through the second tunnel on the way down the trail locate the top of the Coconino layer on both sides of the canyon. Notice the geologic contact between the Supai and Coconino formations is much higher, almost 200 feet higher, on the west side than it is on the east.
The Three-Mile resthouse makes for a good day hike for those wanting to see the inner canyon but not wanting to exert themselves too much. There is a very nice spot for viewing just beyond the resthouse. Follow the trail that leads up past it to the right. Here there are also the remains of the old cable car system that was used to bring supplies down to Indian Garden.
Beyond Three-Mile Resthouse the trail becomes a little steeper, as the trail descends through a break in, first, the Redwall limestone, and then through the Muav formation. The switchbacks at Jacobs Ladder will seems to go on forever on the climb out. Once you are beyond this the trail levels out for the remaining 3/4 mile or so to Indian Garden.
As you approach Indian Garden you will be walking across a formation known as Bright Angel Shale, which forms a wide bench known as the Tonto Platform. Indian Garden makes another good day hike. From here you can take the trail out to Plateau Point, 1.5 miles each way, for an awesome view of the Inner Gorge and Colorado River. To head to Plateau Point take the fork in the trail to the left just beyond Indian Garden. The fork to the right will keep you on the Bright Angel Trail and take you to the river. If you are heading for Plateau Point, watch for another fork in the trail and this time keep to the right. The left fork will put you on the Tonto Trail heading west, and although it is very scenic you won't get to see the river for a long time.
If you are heading for the river, you will still have another 1/2 mile or so before the trail really starts to head down again. The slope is very gradual as you descend through the Bright Angel Shale and the top of the Tapeats Sandstone formations, until you get to the Devil's Corkscrew where it begins a rather abrupt descent through the Vishnu Schist. Beware of this area in the summer time as the temperature can easily reach 130 degrees. Beyond the Devil's Corkscrew the trail levels out again for maybe another 1/2 mile that will bring you to the Colorado River. This technically marks the end of the Bright Angel Trail though some people consider the River Trail that takes you to Bright Angel Campground, 2 miles beyond, to still actually be part of it.
Hiking along the River Trail is not quite as easy as one might expect. The trail makes a couple of fairly steep ascents and descents along the way and walking across some of the dune sections with a full pack can be difficult. The trail along the river runs for 1.7 miles before it comes to the Silver Suspension Bridge. To get to Bright Angel Campground continue for approximately 1/3 of a mile. To reach the South Kaibab Trail or the Black Suspension Bridge continue east along the river trail for approximately 1 mile more. The Black Suspension Bridge marks the other end of the River Trail. From here you can head south up the South Kaibab Trail to Yaki Point or across the bridge and north along the North Kaibab Trail to Bright Angel Campground, Phantom Ranch and the North Rim (14 miles away).
If you are planning to hike both the Bright Angel and South Kaibab Trails you are advised to come down the South Kaibab Trail and go out on the Bright Angel. The reason being that the hike out on the South Kaibab Trail can be quite hot and dry during any period other than the winter months. There is no water available anywhere along the trail and almost nothing in the way of shade. |
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part of Bright Angel Trail with an extension to Plateau Point |
like the North Kaibab this trail is steeper at the top-- Indian Garden is about the halfway point and you only ascend 1,400 feet from the river to Indian Garden but in the last 4.6 miles you ascend 3,060 feet for a total climb of 4,460 feet
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3 maps showing progressive sections of the Bright Angel trail the 1st one starts at the river the 2nd one shows Indian Garden & the two resthouses the last one show the numerous switchbacks in the last 3 miles and some of the buildings on the rim |
a yucca plant in bloom |
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the Colorado River |
sand along the River Trail |
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junction of River Trail with Bright Angel Trail |
Pipe Creek |
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Garden Creek waterfall |
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Indian Garden |
day use area |
part of campground |
looking back at Indian Garden |
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looking back at trail including 1 1/2 mile extension to Plateau Point |
closeup of Plateau Point |
another view of Plateau Point trail
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hedgehog cactus |
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picture taken by Marty - he twisted his ankle the day before the hike so he couldn't do the rim to rim but he hiked down from the south rim part way with Andrea and Libby & took this picture from Plateau Point |
here you can see we are going to be starting some serious climbing |
Last 3,000 Vertical Feet Where's the trail? Trust me it is there ... with two or three switchbacks thrown in for fun. (photo by Kelly Bates) |
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Devil's Corkscrew - This is where the difficult climb begins & this section is named for its resemblance to a corkscrew when viewed from above. The Devil reference is because of the terrible heat that can be encountered--it is not uncommon for the temperature to reach or exceed 130 degrees during the middle parts of the day in the summertime |
looking down at some of the switchbacks |
waterfalls above the Corkscrew |
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view above the Corkscrew |
looking back at the trail
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3-mile resthouse (water &
shade are available here) |
Indian Garden, Plateau Point, & Bright Angel Canyon |
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3 views from 3 mile resthouse |
3-mile resthouse from 1 1/2 mile resthouse |
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looking back at trail |
Bright Angel Canyon from above the last resthouse |
nearing the top
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looking at the South Rim from the Bright Angel trail |
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Lower Tunnel |
view down Bright Angel Trail - BA Canyon can be seen on the north side of the river |
The rocks in the foreground show the first switchbacks of the Bright Angel Trail as it drops from the South Rim. The North Rim is visible on the horizon. (photo by Sean Hudson) |
Bright Angel trail map at the trailhead |
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Kolb Studio clings to the rim of the Grand Canyon and was the home and photographic studio of pioneers Emery and Ellsworth Kolb. Begun in 1904, the building was built without a plan, its rooms added piecemeal over the years. The building is a vivid reminder of the two pioneers who ran the rapids, hiked the canyons, and photographed it all.
Today, historic Kolb Studio is open year-round. It is five stories high and contains twenty-three rooms. An exhibition venue, bookstore, and information center are operated by the Grand Canyon Association, a non-profit organization. Proceeds from sales go toward the continuing restoration and care of the building. |
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map of South Rim |
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we stayed at the Maswik Lodge on the South Rim for one night the lodge rooms were located in different buildings scattered around the grounds and we stayed in this building my room was VERY lovely after the 9.7 mile hike up from the bottom of the canyon |
one final view of Bright Angel Canyon from the South Rim |
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Note: This is a continuation of the Classic Canyons trip--we
hiked three days in Zion then drove to the North Rim. After hiking
from the North to the South Rim in two days we drove to Sedona and hiked
there three days. 
