Yosemite National Park

with my nephew Mark 

(June 2004)

Introduction

Note: We flew to Fresno on Tuesday, rented a car and drove to Yosemite that day stopping to see the sequoias at Mariposa on the way into the park. Then we had four full days at the park before returning to Fresno Saturday evening. This was my third trip to Yosemite, and I was meeting Timberline Adventures on Sunday for a six day hiking trip; however, it was Mark's first trip to Yosemite. If you want to see pictures of my first two trips to Yosemite, click on the following link:  Yosemite

and if you want to see pictures of the 2nd half of this trip with Timberline, click on the following link: Yosemite2

I love Yosemite and visited it in 1994, 2003, and again this year, and know that I will go again. Mark also loved it and is sure he will be visiting the park again. 

The map below shows you the various main areas of Yosemite. There are four entrances, and most people never go beyond the Yosemite valley which is the double red  lines extending from the Arch Rock Entrance as there are northside and southside one-way drives in to and out of the village.  The second map is a thumbnail- size map of the valley which you can enlarge to viewable size with a right click.  

a map of the Wawona Road (Hwy 41) with the Mariposa Grove shown at the bottom of the map & the Glacier Point Road and Yosemite Valley roads at the top

pictures of Yosemite

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 2) right click on the larger image to save the picture

3) click on your Internet Browser's Back arrow (which looks similar to the following image)  to return to this page

the Mariposa Grove museum (a replica of Galen Clark's cabin) with 2 big sequoia trees beside the museum 

The sequoia is a cousin of the coastal redwood which is taller but much smaller in girth. Yosemite has three groves of sequoias with the largest being the upper and lower Mariposa Grove with over 600 trees. The Tuolumne Grove contains over 29 trees while the Merced Grove contains over 20 trees. The Mariposa Grove was explicitly included in the Yosemite Grant signed by President Lincoln in 1864 which gave the area to California for the enjoyment of the people and Galen Clark was appointed Guardian of Yosemite. John Muir arrived in Yosemite Valley four years later and he, Clark, and Robert Underwood Johnson developed plans for a national park, and Yosemite became a national park on October 1, 1890.Now there were two Yosemites (federal and state) plus a Mariposa Grove. In 1905 California ceded the Yosemite grant properties back to the federal government and they were included in the national park. 

the Fallen Wawona (Tunnel) Tree

The tunnel was cut in 1881 and was 26 feet long, 8 feet wide, and 10 feet high. In the winter of 1969 the tree fell probably due in part to the massive tunnel through its base. It had survived an estimated 2,200 years.

Telescope Tree

This tree has a hollowed-out center so you can look up through it and see the sky above. The processes that probably produced this phenomenon were heart rot followed by fire. Although the heartwood of a giant sequoia resists decay fairly well, once decay had decreased the density of the central heartwood, a fire starting at the base or possibly from the top due to lightning, could burn out the center of the tree.

First a general picture of several sequoias then the Clothespin Tree - The gaping wound is 70' high and 16' across at the base. Even though the majority of the original connections between roots and stem have been severed, the tree is in apparent good health and produces cones each year.

Faithful Couple

These two trees have grown closer together though the years. The combined trunk is nearly 40' in diameter near the base and the twin columns reach almost 250' high.

a large uprooted tree that is hollow in the center (the sequoia have very shallow roots so falling over is their most common cause of death)

a scarecrow seen by Mark

the California Tunnel Tree

Between 1881 when the Wawona Tunnel Tree was carved and 1969 when it fell millions of people drove through it--first in buggies and eventually in cars. This 2nd tunnel tree was carved in 1895 to serve as a winter replacement for the Wawona Tree in the upper grove that couldn't be reached due to heavy snow.

Despite the huge hole in its trunk and weakened condition, the California Tree is alive and growing. Damage such as this would not be allowed to occur today. However, both tunnel trees helped promote the Mariposa Grove and contributed to its inclusion in Yosemite National Park in 1906.

The Grizzly Giant 

This is the largest and oldest tree in the Mariposa Grove. Although it is only a little over 200 feet tall, its massive trunk rises impressively in an almost straight column that is nearly 31 feet across at the base and is still over 13 feet across 120 feet above ground level. The first large limb 95 feet above the ground is 6 feet in diameter. Its estimated age is between 2,500 and 3,000 years.

mule deer were a very common sight - the one on the top I saw when I was at Mariposa with Mark & the one on the bottom when I was there with Timberline 

The Bachelor & The Three Graces 

These trees are an excellent example of the giant sequoia's capacity to grow to great size in close proximity. What would ordinarily be competition between individuals is resolved by cooperation. The roots of the trees fuse together and support one another rather than remain independent. The Three Graces probably are the survivors of a once dense stand of giant sequoias that seeded in after a fire many centuries ago. All 3 are over 200 feet tall.

The Fallen Giant

Giant sequoias have been known to live 3,200 years. They are resistant to disease, fire, and insects; however, they do have a weakness. Though the roots spread out 150 feet from the tree, they are only 3 to 6 feet deep. You can imagine the balancing act these trees must perform to remain standing. Eventually wind and snow and the shallow root system will cause the tree to fall. Even after death the tree decays slowly, often taking hundreds or even a thousand years to deteriorate. The Fallen Monarch fell about 300 years ago.

Curry Village

In 1899 David and Jennie Curry opened a tented camp so that visitors could enjoy the beauty of Yosemite for a modest price. They advertised "a good bed and clean napkin with every meal" for just $2 a day. Today, Curry Village is a hub of activity and services.

Curry Village has 628 guest accommodations -- 18 standard motel rooms (3 we stayed here 1 night) , 100 cabins with private baths (here 2 nights) , 3 specialty cabins with baths, 80 cabins with a central bath (here 1 night), and 427 canvas tent cabins.

Originally when I made the reservation in December all that was available was 4 nights in a tent cabin. However, about two weeks before we left I started checking online

http://www.yosemitepark.com/bookonline.cfm

every morning at 7 am California time for updates based on cancellations. They shut the system down at midnight California time and open up at 7 am with an updated database. One morning I hit the jackpot and got a cabin with bath for the first 3 nights then later I got a cabin without bath for the last night.

Curry Village from Glacier Point with zoom lens

tent cabins

inside a tent cabin

duplex cabin with bath

tent cabins w/o bath

inside one of the cabins

Curry Buffet Breakfast/Dinner

breakfast was good--Mark ate breakfast here several times and I ate breakfast once

we ate dinner here once and it wasn't very good

Glacier Point

From Glacier Point, 3,200 feet above Yosemite Valley, a stupendous vista stretches for many miles north and east, over the forests and meadows around the Merced river, the enclosing cliffs and lofty domes, and across the many higher mountains in the distant wilderness areas of the Park. In one direction, Vernal and Nevada falls are clearly visible, along the course of Little Yosemite Valley. A little way north is the steep Tenaya Canyon, the two separated by the distinctive Half Dome. Opposite the viewpoint, Upper & Lower Yosemite Falls cascade 2,400 feet down the sheer cliffs, and far beneath cars and even people can be seen, moving slowly along.

Glacier Point is probably the best easily-accessed, high-elevation viewpoint in the Sierra Nevada range, and is reached by a paved, 16 mile road that forks west from CA 41 at Chinquapin Junction, 8 miles south of the Wawona Tunnel entrance. The road is fully open from June to October, with limited access for cross-country skiers during winter. There is also a path, The Four Mile Trail, that links Glacier Point with Southside Drive in the valley below.

Fires: For many years it was a weekly occurrence for a large bonfire to be lit at the top of the cliffs and then tipped over the edge when in full blaze. The burning mass, known as a 'firefall', fell 3,000 feet onto the forests and meadows of Yosemite Valley below, a practice that was ended in 1968.

Mark at Glacier Point

The Grand Staircase (Nevada & Vernal Falls)

Nevada Falls

Half Dome with Clouds Rest barely visible behind it and Tenaya Canyon in front

Mt. Clark (11,522) & Mt. Starr King (9,092 feet) with Nevada & Vernal Falls

Mt. Starr King

another view of Mt. Clark & Mt. Starr King

squirrel at Glacier Point

Ancient Yosemite Creek cascaded thousands of feet into a deep canyon carved by the Merced River. During the Ice Age, glaciers gouged out the canyon into an even steeper U-shape with vertical walls. Yosemite Creek was left hanging 2,600 feet above the valley floor. The creek now plummets over the precipice as Yosemite Falls. When the winter's snowmelt disappears, usually by late summer, Yosemite Falls dwindle and often dry up completely.

It is the world's fifth tallest at 2,425 feet with the world's tallest being Angel Falls in Venezuela at 3,212 feet. The upper falls are 1,430 feet, the middle cascades are 675 feet, and the lower falls are 320 feet.

Principally snow melt feeds Yosemite Creek and Falls. A good proportion of this watershed is bare granite with limited soil and few lakes for water storage which would prolong a greater water flow into late summer and autumn. So it roars in spring and whimpers later in the season.

Yosemite Falls from Glacier Point

Ahwahnee Hotel & bridge over Merced River from Glacier Point

Royal Arches with North Dome, Washington Column, & Basket Dome

Half Dome and the Tenaya Canyon

Between North Dome and Basket Dome on the left, and Half Dome on the right lies Tenaya Canyon, carved by glaciers into a rounded 'U' shape. At the highest point, glaciers towered 700 feet above Half Dome.

Mark next to the overhanging rock on Glacier Point with Yosemite Falls in the background 

Nevada & Vernal Falls from Washburn Point

Washburn Point, just south of Glacier Point has similar views, though the views of Vernal and Nevada Falls are a bit better.

Illilouette Falls as seen from Washburn Point

left blank on purpose

Sentinel Dome & Taft Point Trails

This trail begins from the Taft Point/Sentinel Dome Trailhead along Glacier Point Road. Sentinel Dome is a 2.4 mile round trip hike and leads to one of the most popular, and climbable, domes in the valley and offers amazing views of the natural features within Yosemite Valley.

We began from the northeastern (right) side of the parking area. We hiked for about three quarters of a mile, ascending slightly to the southeastern base of the dome. Here we walked around the base of the dome following the left fork of the trail at two junctions.

After a short distance through some stunted trees we turned left, left the trail, and began the ascent up the dome. This is one of the tallest domes in the valley and the views are remarkable.

After we came down from Sentinel Dome we followed the Pohono Trail on around along the rim until it connected with the trail to Taft Point. On the way we crossed Sentinel Creek and got a glimpse of Sentinel Falls but couldn't see the entire falls because it was too close to the cliffs. After connecting with the Taft Point trail we continued on to the Profile Cliff and saw the fissures (deep cracks in the granite that extend hundreds of feet downwards towards the valley) and the views 

from Taft Point, also called Lookout Rock. Then we returned via the Taft Point trail direct to the parking lot. The entire hike to both Sentinel Dome and Taft Point was approximately 5 miles.

With only a few hundred feet of elevation gain and a 2.2 mile round trip, Sentinel Dome is an easy hike and standing at an elevation of 8122' it is nearly as tall as neighboring Half Dome (8836") so the views are very good.

Yosemite Falls

Yosemite Valley 

(El Capitan is to the right)

Half Dome

Indian Paintbrush

view of Yosemite Falls through the trees on the trail from Sentinel Dome to Taft Point 

(the water was dancing with the wind)

Yosemite Falls from Sentinel Creek

me at Sentinel Creek overlook

one of the fissures near Taft Point

another fissure

approaching Taft Point

Taft Point with Yosemite Valley down below

The Famous View from the Wawona Tunnel

Of all the picture-postcard views in California perhaps none is so familiar, and so perfect, as the view of Yosemite Valley from the east end of the Wawona Tunnel. Motorists arriving from the south first see the valley as they emerge from the long dark tunnel, and the effect is truly stunning. Bridalveil Falls is prominent, directly ahead, with the Cathedral Rocks above it, and El Capitan directly opposite while Half Dome looms mistily at the far end of the valley.

Bridalveil Falls & the Cathedral Rocks

Half Dome & Clouds Rest

Mark in front of the Tunnel View

Half Dome

 The trail leading to Half Dome begins at the Happy Isles Trailhead at an elevation of 4,020 feet and ends at the summit of Half Dome at an elevation of 8,842 feet; thus, there is an elevation gain of 4,822 feet. It follows the paved trail to the footbridge at the base of Mist Trail. Hikers can follow the Mist Trail or the Muir Trail to Nevada Falls. The Muir Trail is one mile longer but not as rocky and steep (round trip 16.5 miles via the Mist Trail & 18.5 miles via the Muir Trail).

Above Nevada Falls follow the John Muir Trail past Liberty Cap, along the Merced River into Little Yosemite Valley. It is one mile along the John Muir Trail from Liberty Cap to a fork in the trail. The right fork leads to Little Yosemite backcountry camp. Follow the left side of the fork as it leads through Little Yosemite Valley. In another mile the John Muir Trail splits from the Half Dome Trail. The elevation at this point is 7,000 feet.

It is two miles to the summit of Half Dome from this split in the trail. The first mile and a quarter consists of a well-shaded climb. Emerging from the trees the northeast face of Half Dome becomes visible. The elevation at this point is approximately 8,000 feet. (The summit of Half Dome is 8,842 feet.) 

The trail continues to climb to the summit of a nearby dome. Granite stairs were carved along this ascent. They include many switchbacks on an exposed trail with lots of loose gravel. Beyond the stairs the trail traverses the dome then descends slightly to the shoulder of Half Dome where the cable climb begins. The cable leads hikers up a 30 percent grade of smooth granite. There is a cable for individuals going up and one for folks going down; however, when no one is coming down, those going up use both cables. From late May through late October the cable is supported by wooden planks that create a banister-like effect, bringing the cable to waist level. During the winter the posts and wooden planks are removed.

Afternoon thunderstorms are common in this mountainous region from late June through late August. This last portion of the climb should not be attempted if thunderheads loom in the area. A significant amount of exposure is involved in the last half mile of this climb and there is no shelter on the summit.

Mark and I at the beginning of the Half Dome trail - we went up via the Muir trail and came down via the Mist trail so the round trip was 17.5 miles with an elevation gain of 4,800 feet.

the heavy red line shows the 16.5 mile trail & to the right at the beginning a light purple line shows the alternate Muir Trail up to Nevada Falls

this is a topo map that shows the same trail

Glacier Point on the left and Grizzly Peak on the right

Glacier Point

Mt. Broderick on the left, Clouds Rest in the middle, & Liberty Cap on the right

zoomed in on the previous view

Nevada Falls from the Muir trail

  zoomed in view of Nevada Falls

the top of Nevada Falls

the back of Half Dome

Royal Arches & North Dome & Basket Dome

Clark Range

Cathedral Range

Starr King 

Half Dome

the far side of Half Dome that we are going to climb

getting close to the final ascent

close view of Half Dome

getting ready to start the final ascent 

views of Tenaya Canyon before starting up Half Dome

here people are climbing the steps and the smooth granite - the cables are encountered LATER on the shoulder of Half Dome

a small section of the steps up Half Dome 

Jerry on part of the trail

me climbing some of the steps

you can see the angle and the type of surface we are climbing

people are barely visible climbing the shoulder of Half Dome on the cable

the red line shows the area traversed with the aid of the cables

the beginning of the cable climb

looking up the cables

 climbing the cables

following are several views from the top of Half Dome

Snow Creek Canyon & May Lake

zoomed in on Snow Creek falls

the peak of Half Dome

Snow Creek Canyon from the Peak

Tenaya Canyon from the Peak

Yosemite Valley

Tenaya Canyon and Clouds Rest

Yosemite Valley

(Sentinel Dome, the top of the Cathedral Rocks, and El Capitan can be seen)

looking down the cables

Jerry walking down - he had traction with his climbing boots, but I didn't

someone had a heart attack and fell off the steps going up Half Dome the day before and a search & rescue team came up to retrieve the body while we were there

looking back at Half Dome after we were off of it

the top of Nevada Falls

switchbacks on the Mist Trail beside Nevada Falls

Mark on the Mist Trail switchbacks beside Nevada Falls

Nevada Falls from the Mist Trail

site of the Snow Hotel beside the Nevada Falls

Merced River

azaleas

Mark at the top of Vernal Falls

Vernal Falls

part of the 600+ steps going up beside Vernal Falls - you get wet from the mist as you climb or descend these steps hence the name Mist Trail

Mark at the top of one section of the Mist Trail

Vernal Falls and the cascade over the rocks at the base of the falls in the Merced River

         Hetch Hetchy

Hetch Hetchy Valley became an eight-mile-long reservoir in the early 1930's when O'Shaughnessy Dam was completed and the waters of the Tuolumne river were impounded to provide water for the city of San Francisco. Yet, even with its floor flooded, the valley is still something to behold.

The round-trip to Wapama Falls is only 5 miles which was enough after the long hike to Half Dome the day before; however, you can continue on to Rancheria Falls for a 13-mile hike. We started by crossing the dam then entered a 500-foot-long tunnel, emerging to join an old road that led over gray pine-dotted slopes. A mile out, we reached a junction and headed right (east) as the road gave way to a footpath. In another half mile, we passed the seasonal Tueeulala Falls and in another half mile spotted Wapama Falls, soon reached by a winding trail. We stopped at the base of the falls on a bridge across Falls Creek to admire the falls and eat our lunch.

a map of Hetch Hetchy Valley

on the way to Hetch Hetchy on Friday we stopped at Crane Flat Meadow and saw many flowers

general picture

Nodding Microseres

Bistort

Shooting Star

butterfly on a Bigelow Sneezeweed

Columbine

Bog Orchid

Mariposa Lily

Farewell to Spring

Hetch Hetchy Reservoir with Wapama Falls on the opposite side

O'Shaughnessy's Dam - built 1915-1922

looking down from the top of the dam at the sluice gate

looking at the sluice from the other side and at the side overflow as well as the Tuolumne river

water spilling over the top of the dam

water being carried away from the dam after spilling over the top & entering the Tuolumne River below the dam

Reservoir & Kolana Rock

Manzanita Bush

Mariposa Lily

reservoir with Rancheria Mountain in the background & Kolana Rock on the right

some steps just to remind us of yesterday's trail

4 views of Wapama Falls

 Wapama Falls is probably the most powerful waterfall in Yosemite National Park. It flows year round  and constantly produce a blinding spray. It is 1,341 feet tall although it is sometimes listed as being 1,700 feet tall which is likely a measurement taken before the construction of the O'Shaughnessey Dam and the Hetch Hetchy Reservoir. Depending on the level of the lake, from the brink of the falls, the creek drops 1341 feet into a huge alluvial fan comprised of boulders the size of cars, before it cascades another 200 feet into the lake (that 200 foot of talus cascades are not counted as part of the waterfall). When the lake is drawn down, there will be even more cascades. It is a horsetail or plunge falls with two drops. But the two drops can't be seen until you get close to the falls. Also the upper part of the first drop can't be seen from a distance. 

El Portal View - looking down the Merced River Canyon towards Yosemite Valley

Half Dome, El Capitan, & Sentinel Dome as seen from Hwy. 120

Elephant Rock

this rock is located on Hwy. 120 near the tunnel

Yosemite Valley is only 7 miles long and less than 1 mile wide

Ahwahnee Hotel

The Hotel opened in 1927 and is unparalleled in magnificence and charm. It was designated a National Historic Landmark on June 2, 1987.

Ahwahnee as seen from Glacier Point with a zoom lens

Yosemite Falls

Yosemite Falls drop 2,425 feet in three sections (upper, 1,430 feet; middle, 675 feet; lower, 320 feet) making it the tallest waterfall in North America and fifth highest in the world. A 3.6 mile (one-way) trail with an elevation gain of 2,700 feet takes one to the brink of the Upper Fall with outstanding views of the valley along the way.

The Upper Yosemite Falls are a magnificent sight at any time of year, but especially so during the time of maximum snow melt in late spring. They are the 7th highest in the world, or part of the 5th highest if the lower falls are included. The falls are visible for several miles up and down the valley as Yosemite Creek emerges from miles of gentle meandering across the Eagle Creek meadows north of Yosemite valley and cascades over the towering granite cliffs to meet with the Merced River far below. Such is the height of the falls that the water fans out during its descent and returns to earth in a series of pulses and wind-blown spray, covering quite a large area.

Lower Yosemite Falls drops from a rocky ledge on the N side of Yosemite Valley to the flat forested land below, after which the creek flows gently through the woods for a few hundred yards and joins the Merced. The falls are hidden by trees and only when close can a good view be obtained.

several views of Yosemite Falls

a coyote that was beside the road in the valley

El Capitan

the chapel & Half Dome

Three Brothers

The Three Brothers are located just east of El Capitan. It is made up of Eagle Peak (the uppermost "brother"), and Middle and Lower Brothers. It is best viewed from Southside Drive or the Merced River just east of El Capitan.

Bridalveil Falls

This falls drops 620 feet in a virtual free fall from the lip of Bridalveil Canyon, a hanging valley which was created by glaciers. When the glaciers disappeared, Bridalveil Creek was left suspended far above the valley floor. The Ahwahneechee called this place Pohono, "spirit of the puffing wind." The wind swirls about the cliff, often lifting the falling water and blowing it from side to side in a delicate free-fall. Although Bridalveil Fall appears to be small when seen against the surrounding canyon walls, it is actually 620 feet high. The black color is a parasite that thrives on the moisture on the cliff. The Falls are located on the south wall near the entrance to the valley; its base can be reached via a short spray-drenched footpath. By late summer, the 620-foot fall diminishes to a gossamer curtain of wind-blown water.

several views of Bridalveil Falls

to continue viewing the Timberline part of the 2004 Yosemite trip click here 

2004-Yosemite-2 

for pictures of other vacations return to the Vacation Photos page