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Peru III Inti Raymi, Inca Trail, & Machu Picchu with Andes Adventures (www.andesadventures.com) June 22 to July 3, 2005
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Introduction
I had wanted to hike the Inca Trail for some time and finally decided to do it so I searched the internet for companies offering a good hiking trip. As you can imagine there were dozens. I easily narrowed it down to 3 or 4 and finally selected Andes Adventures. I was not sorry. They think of everything, and the hotels and food were very good. They even made the camping and trekking experience on the Inca Trail a marvelous experience as all I had to do was the trekking--the guides and porters did everything else. The porters carried our duffle bag, tent, sleeping bag, and mattress pad as well as the general camp equipment and supplies, while we carried only a day pack with snacks, water, extra layers and a camera. The head guide and his two assistants were tremendous. There were 13 of us, the 3 three guides, and 30 porters. The basic routine was get up early to eat a hot already prepared breakfast and then we would set out while the porters were breaking down camp. They would load up and run past us on the trail, and some of them would stop and fix lunch for us, then then they would run ahead again and set up camp and have snacks ready by the time we arrived. § I actually took three trips: (1) the "Posada Amazonas & Tambopata Research Center extension, (2) the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu with Inti Raymi Festival Trekking Adventure, and (3) the Lake Titicaca" extension. Because of the large number of pictures involved I have placed all the pictures not related to the Inti Raymi Festival, Inca Trail or Machu Picchu in a separate file and these pictures can be viewed by clicking on the Peru I link. On this page I have organized about 170 pictures and maps that include pictures of the Inti Raymi festival, the 4-day Inca Trail, and Machu Picchu. You can scan the thumbnails and click to enlarge only those pictures that interest you. I hope you enjoy these pictures, and I hope you also enjoy some of my explanations. |
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The INCA and their History At the time of Columbus' landfall, the greatest empire on earth was that of the Inca. Called Tawantinsuyu or 'Land of the Four Quarters,' (see first map above for the division of the empire into the 4 quarters. The empire spanned more than 4300 miles along the mountains and coastal deserts of South America. The vast empire stretched from central Chile and northwestern Argentina to the present Ecuador-Colombia border--see 2nd map above. This is a land area equal to the United States from Maine to Florida east of the Appalachians). It exceeded in size any medieval or contemporary European nation and equaled the longitudinal expanse of the Roman Empire. Yet for all its greatness, Tawantinsuyu existed for barely a century. The origins of the Inca are shrouded in mystery and mythology. According to their own mythology, the Inca began when Manco Capac and his sister, Mama Occlo, rose out of Lake Titicaca, having been created by the Sun and the Moon as divine founders of a chosen people. They went off with a golden rod to find a suitable location to found a great city, and founded Cuzco. Archaeological research, on the other hand, indicates that the pre-imperial Inca were simply one of a number of petty tribes in the south central region of Peru. From roughly 1200 AD to the early 1400's, the Inca engaged in numerous battles with local rivals, but never achieved supremacy over any of them. Around 1438, however, the Inca emperor Viracocha and his son, Pachakuti, defeated a powerful rival, the Chankas. The empire building era of the Inca then began. In the few short years before their overthrow by the Spanish in 1532, the Inca developed one of the largest and most sophisticated empires in the entire pre-industrial world The Inca accomplished their phenomenal growth through a mixture of diplomacy and warfare, and a sociopolitical management system based on highly effective taxation and the dependable provision of goods and services to the peoples of their realm. As the Inca began to expand their territories, the first step was to seek alliances with tribes upon the frontiers. Copious gifts of textiles, exotic products from distant regions, and wives to add blood ties to the alliances were offered to the chiefs of these tribes. Quite frequently these gifts were readily accepted (certainly the intimidating specter of the powerful Inca armies assisted in this process), but if certain tribes proved recalcitrant, the Inca simply overwhelmed them with superior military power. In either case, the tribes were then incorporated into larger administrative units and political provinces. This strategy left Tawantinsuyu with more than 80 political provinces, each with different ethnic and linguistic characteristics. To address these differences the Inca imposed there own tongue, Quechua, as the language of the realm and the medium of governmental communication. Additionally, the Inca frequently moved entire populations around their realm, putting loyal groups into troublesome areas, and transferring recalcitrant tribes to loyal areas. Inca statecraft, a system of truly extraordinary efficiency, was founded upon the ancient concept of reciprocity. Goods and services moved from the local area to regional and state warehouses and were then redistributed back to the populace. The state economy was based, not on currency, but on extracting taxes in the form of labor. There were three primary forms to this taxation: agricultural levies on local community-managed lands; a labor service required of able-bodied males that provided for monumental construction projects and military campaigns; and the textile production required of women, children and older men. The goods & services gathered were then divided into three shares. The first third went to support Inti (the Sun god) as well as other gods, & a wide variety of ceremonial activities. The second went to support the Inca emperor and the construction and military projects he initiated. The third was redistributed to the common people in the form of food, textiles, lavish festivals, and military protection. The most visible, and remaining, examples of Inca genius are to be found in their monumental construction projects: in the form of roads, agricultural terraces, and administrative and ceremonial structures. The vast empire was united by an extensive and superbly efficient highway system. Two parallel highways, one along the coast and the other in the high mountains, ran north-south from one end of the empire to the other. Between these two major highways ran dozens of east-west roads linking the coasts, mountains, and jungles. Altogether there were more than 30,000 kilometers of these roads, the majority of which were paved, well drained, and equipped with storage houses, travelers' lodges, and military posts. The produce of the empire moved efficiently along these roads trans-ported by hardy llamas strung together in caravans of a thousand or more animals. Furthermore, along the roads sped the most rapid communication system ever developed in the pre-industrial world--in the form of a constant movement of fleet-footed runners. To feed the people in their empire, the Inca terraced great areas of mountain land, transported rich soils to the terraces, employed highly sophisticated irrigation systems, and experimented with a variety of crops. These monumental landscaping projects, called andenes in the Quechua language, so impressed the colonial Spanish that they named the Andes mountains after them. The Inca also displayed brilliance with design and construction. They fashioned monumental architecture equal in beauty to any culture of the old world. Massive, multi-sided blocks were precisely fitted together in interlocking patterns in order to withstand the disastrous effects of earthquakes (in an earthquake, the stones on Inca terrace walls lock together, allowing the entire wall to simultaneously flex and cohere). Splashing fountains abounded and masterpieces of hydraulic engineering brought fresh water into buildings, while other channels removed wastes. |
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Inti Raymi (Festival of the Sun) To sun-worshiping Incas, the rite of Inti Raymi, a tribute to the Sun God Apu Inti Tayta, was the biggest and most important ceremony carried out in Inca times. The winter solstice (Peru is south of the equator so the shortest day of the year is June 21) represented both the beginning of a new cycle and the return of the source of life to the Andes. The Incas measured the length of the days and knew the sun was the farthest away at the winter solstice. This festival begged the sun to return on its path towards longer days, while celebrating the start of a new year. The ceremony was important because the Inca people believed they were descendants of the Sun. The ceremony was carried out at the end of the potatoes and maize harvest period in order to thank the Sun for the abundant crops or, otherwise, in order to ask for better crops the next season. Some historians suggest that this ceremony was started inside the "Corikancha" temple (Golden temple) in view of the Sun icon that was highly polished gold. During the ceremony the reflection would have been blindingly brilliant. Later, the Inca king would go to Aukaypata Plaza through the "Intik'iqllu" or "Street of the Sun" (present-day Loreto street) in order to witness the llama sacrifice. The "Willaq Uma" (highest priest) had to perform the llama sacrifice offering a completely black or white llama. With a sharp golden knife called a "tumi" he had to open the animal's chest and with his hands pull out its throbbing heart and lungs. From observing these organs he could foretell the future. Later, the animal was completely incinerated. After the sacrifice, the priest had to produce the sacred fire. Three days prior to this ceremony all fires throughout the kingdom had been put out on faith that the Sun God would renew the fire. Standing in front of the Sun, the priest had to catch its rays in a concave gold medallion that contained some soft or oily material in order to produce the fire that had to be kept lit during the next year in the Corikancha temple. Subsequently, the priests offered the "sanqhu" (a holy bread) prepared from maize flour and the blood of the sacrificed llama. Once all the ritual stages of the Inti Raymi were finished, all the attendants went to Kusipata plaza (present-day Plaza del Regocijo) where after being nourished, people were entertained with music, dancing and plentiful supplies of "chicha" (maize beer). After the Spanish conquest, the date of Inti Raymi was changed to coincide with the Catholic feast of St. John the Baptist. Today, Inti Raymi is one of the largest pageants in South America, and a source of great cultural pride to Peruvians. It is staged annually in Cuzco, starting at the remains of the Corikancha temple, then in the Main Square, and finally in the Sacsaywaman ruins. It takes place every year on June 24th. The entire ceremony is carried out in Quechua, the language of the Incas. The Modern Inti Raymi Festival Starts in the Corikancha The musicians enter first followed by the Sinchi and his guards (the supreme military commander). Next the Imperial army fill the SE extremity of the lower part of the scenario. Then the chosen women and princesses enter and throw flowers along the Inka's promenade and assume their positions on the two terraces below the apse. Next the royal entourage, the nobility, and finally the Inka and the Qoya (queen) make their entry. Then the Hymn to the Lord Sun is chanted first by the Inka, then the royal entourage, and finally all those present: My Sun! My Father! with great joy we salute you, delighting in the solace of your great light. My Sun My Father!
My Sun! My Father! You give strength to the whole world. Sharing with us your warmth. My Sun! My Father! Next the Inka speaks and finally the Inka and Qoya (queen or "the adored one"), followed by the royal entourage and the nobility, proceed to the exit accompanied by music. Next the women, army, Sinchi and his guards, and finally the musicians exit. |
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700 actors practice for months to put on this festival
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Procession to the Haukaypata (Plaza de Armas) (we didn't see this part of the ceremony as we left early for Sacsaywaman) From the present day Plaza of Santo Domingo the cortege begins its march to the Haukaypata (present day Plaza de Armas) along the present day Loretto Street. The Inca and Qoya are borne in litters to the Plaza where a sacred stone altar has been erected. Another Hymn is sung: Mighty Sun, only Father! Source of warmth, wellspring of happiness. I salute you with joy and I worship you on your great festival. God of day! Burning sun! After the coca rite the Inka asks that the leader of his beloved people of Qosqo (Cuzco) be brought to him. He tells the mayor to govern with kindness, honor, truth and justice and hands him the sacred khipu which holds the three powers which are the life of their people: Love! Work! Learn! The mayor replies that he will protect this wondrous heritage and that he will work tirelessly for the happiness of the people of Qosqo. The Inka then announces that they will make their way swiftly towards Sacsaywaman. |
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The people are gathering for the Sacsaywaman ceremony and many have built earth ovens and are baking potatoes. |
these people are posing for pictures for tips |
Peruvians sit for free up on the hillside & tourists sit below in the expensive seats--our tickets cost $70 US. |
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Traditionally an imposing usnu (a stone platform with 2 or more tiers would be used for ceremonial displays). This simpler platform has been constructed to serve as the main stage today. |
blowing the conch shell initiates the activities then other musicians enter and join in the festivities
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The imperial army enters from the four corners of the esplanade just as they arrived from the four corners of the empire and takes up its positions. |
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Then the Inka arrives & the people bow before him.
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The Inka then thanks the Creator Sun who gave being and value to men and said: "Let this be man" and to woman said: "Let this be woman." He asks the Lord Sun to "watch over us and let us live safe and sound, free from danger and at peace. Hold us in your hand and accept our offering. Oh, Lord Sun to whom today on your day we extend our eternal gratitude for the life giving light and warmth that you give us." |
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The generals of each region then report to the Inka on his region and presents his offerings: Amaru - Lord of Qollasuyo (southern region) Atoq - Lord of the Kuntisuyo (western region) Yupanki - Lord of the Antisuyo (eastern region) Ruminawi - Lord of Chinchaysuyo (northern region) One of the regions then dedicates a joyful dance to the Sun followed by the Chicha rite (chicha is a mildly alcoholic corn beverage). The Inka pours the contents of a sacred cup into an earthen jar which is connected to a golden channel which will carry the chicha all the way to the Sun Temple. Once the offering reaches the temple, the Inka takes a sip from the 2nd cup and passes it to the Willaq Uma (the high priest of the empire). |
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a joyful dance to the Sun |
The army stands at attention during the chicha rite.
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left blank intentionally
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The Sacred Fire & the Sacrifice The fire for the sacrifice had to be a new fire, given by the hand of the Sun. The High Priest takes a large bracelet, which they called chipana (similar to others which the Incas usually wore on their left wrists), except it was larger than the common ones; it had as a medallion a concave cup, the size of a half orange, and was very polished; he faces it towards the Sun, and where the rays of the cup hit the bracelet they placed a little teased cotton. With fire given by the hand of the Sun, he lights the central fire and chaskis (messsengers) light the fires in each quarter of the esplanade and later will burn the sacrifice and roast the meat on that day. They also carry the fire to the Sun temple and the house of the virgins, where they maintain it all year. Next they bring forth a young black llama and lay it upon the altar with the head towards the sunrise. The Tarpuntay (oracular priest) performs the sacrifice. With the "tumi" (a ritual knife) he opens the left side and pulls out the heart, lungs and trachea and examines them. He then approaches the high priest and presents them for inspection. The viscera is then thrown into the flames and the priests observe the rising smoke then gives their reports to the Inka. (note the sacrifice is now staged and not actually performed) |
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The army in one of the quarters waits reverently for one of the chaskis (messengers) to light their fire and when it is lit they start standing up. |
The priests bring in a llama for the sacrifice and then perform the sacrifice. |
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Rite of Sankhu After the sacrifice the Rite of Sankhu (ritual food made of maize paste & blood of a sacrificed animal) is performed. Sankhu, made with the whitest corn of their harvest is sprinkled with the blood of the sacrificed llama and blessed then ate first by the Inka, then the priests, the nobles, and the various suyos. Later all the people will eat the Sankhu. The Inka then tells the people that "Our father, the eternal Sun, has responded favorably showing us his kindness. He offers us his help with all the good things that we must accomplish, principally in our work. We must work harder, and all together--with joy! Work together is the command of the omnipotent Sun! Will we do this?" Everyone answer "Yes! It will be done!" Then the Inka tells them "let us sing, let us dance, let us drink, then, all together. I will retire to my palace where I will share in your happiness. Let us celebrate our father, the Sun!" Seated in his litter and accompanied by his royal entourage and the nobility, the Inka and the Queen tours the entire perimeter of the esplanade among and above the heads of the gathering as they dance, sing, and drink. |
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In Incan times these maidens would have been set aside and would live in the temple as virgins from 5-13 years of age then they would decide if they want to continue as servants of the sun or return to a regular life. |
The maidens are lifting up offerings to the Sun. |
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one of the army contingents |
the Qoya & her retinue |
the Qoya (the adored one) being carried on her litter |
one of the queen's attendants |
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Maidens from a different quarter of the empire bearing offerings. |
the Inka (this reinactment is frozen in time and the Inka is always Pachakuti) |
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army contingents from 2 different quarters marching together |
some local children with birds & a llama posing for tips |
more posed pictures
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The
Inca Road System
Among
the many roads and trails constructed in western South America, the Inca
road systems in Peru are the most extensive yet constructed on the
South American continent. Traversing the Andes mountains and reaching
heights over 16,500 feet above sea level, the trails connected the regions
of the Inca empire from the northern provincial capital in Quito, Ecuador
past the modern city of Santiago, Chile in the south. The Inca road system
covered approximately 14,000 miles and provided access to over three
million km² of territory. |
These trails were used by the Inca people as a means of relaying messages and transporting goods. The messages were carried via quipu, books, and oral methods. Messages could be carried by chasqui runners at a speed of 150 miles per day. These would work in relay fashion much like the Pony Express of the 1860s in North America. There were approximately 2,000 inns, or tambos, placed at even intervals along the 30,000 kilometers (18,640 miles) of Inca trails. The inns provided food, shelter and military supplies to the 300,000 bureaucrats who traveled the roads in this organized and civilized empire. There were corrals for llamas and stored provisions such as corn, lima beans, dried potatoes, and llama jerky. Along the roads, local villagers would plant fruit trees that were watered by irrigation ditches. This enabled chasqui runners and other travelers to be refreshed while on their journeys. Inca rope bridges provided effective access across valleys with intricate steps carved up and down to the bridges. Many of the trails converge on the center of the empire, the Inca capital city of Cusco. It was therefore easy for the Spanish conquistadors to locate the city. However, the Incas did not make use of the wheel as many western civilizations had. It was also not until the arrival of the Spanish in Peru in the 16th century that horses were used for transportation. Traversing the trails on horseback proved to be difficult and treacherous for the Spanish in their attempts to conquer the Inca Empire. Unaccustomed to the high altitude, weakened by the cold, and frequently ambushed by their enemies, many conquistadors lost their lives on the Inca trails. Main routes The Inca constructed roads that integrated their entire empire. The most important of these was the Camino Real, with a length of 3,230 miles, which began in Quito, Ecuador, passed through Cusco, and ended in what is now Tucumán, Argentina. The Camino Real traversed the mountain ranges of the Andes, with peak altitudes of more than 5,000 meters. El Camino de la Costa, the coastal trail, at a length of 2,420 miles ran parallel to the sea and was united with the Camino Real by many smaller routes. |
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The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu was one very small part of the Inca road system, and on its way it passed other Inca cities, religious sites, etc. before it reached Machu Picchu. |
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3 more maps of the Inca Trail |
Before boarding the bus for the final trip to the beginning of the trail we had lunch in the home of one of our cooks in Ollantaytambo. |
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The Inca Trail The Inca Trail winds its way through the Sacred Valley to arrive at Machu Picchu through the Sun Gate. This incredible journey passes through ancient ruins, an extraordinary diversity of exotic vegetation & breathtaking mountain views. The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu is Peru's most popular trekking route and possibly one of the most spectacular walks in the Americas. It forms part of the more than 23,000 km of roads built by the Incas across South America. Each year, some 25,000 hikers from all over the world walk the 43 km stone-paved trail, built by the Incas to get to the impregnable citadel of Machu Picchu, deep in the cloud forest. The trail sets out from Qorihuayrachina at Kilometer 88 of the Cuzco-Quillabamba railway and takes 3 to 4 days of tough hiking. The route passes through a range of altitudes where climates and eco-systems range from the high Andean plain down to cloud forests. The trail climbs up through 3 highland passes (the highest Warmiwañuska, or Dead Woman's Pass, at 12,500 feet above sea level) before reaching Machu Picchu through the Inti Punku or Sun Gate. One of the attractions of the trail is that it winds past several ancient Inca settlements and is surrounded by breath-taking natural scenery. The Inca Trail is rated among the ten best trekking trails in the world because of its striking beauty, ancient Inca ruins and diverse ecological zones. We started late in the afternoon on the first day and only hiked approximately 3.5 miles. |
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From the very beginning we had beautiful views of the mountains and the fields. |
At our first camp we had grass covers to put over the tents to insulate them from the cold. |
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Day Two The trail crossed the Cusichaca river and followed it upstream on a gradual climb leaving behind the Urubamba valley and a magnificent view of snow capped Mount Veronica (18,865'), the highest peak in the Cordillera Urubamba. Fortunately, the Incas left a marvelous path, including stone staircases up through cloud forests and open grasslands. We had some great views back towards the Urubamba Valley and passed the archaeological site of Llactapata "town on hillside" at 8,400 feet. Later we reached the village of Wayllabamba at 9,100 feet, the last inhabited village on the Inca trail. Penetrating the spectacular Llulluchayoc gorge; the trail became steeper as we entered mossy woods and continued our uphill climb through a thick forest, before emerging into a large meadow. We were now walking on original Inca stonework as we climbed uphill, and we finally camped just short of the actual pass. We camped overnight at "Llulluchapampa" high above the tree line at 12,450 feet. Today's trek: 9 miles. |
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Alberto, one of our Quechua guides, & a porter |
Cusichaca river and another view of snow capped Mount Veronica |
3 of our porters |
This part of the trail is used by animals as well as humans & the original Inca trail has been destroyed. |
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a house beside the trail |
a curious dog |
another view of the large loads carried by the porters
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They sold cold drinks at this rest stop at the village of Wayllabamba (the last village on the trail). |
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The
Mountain Gods
Three
snow-covered mountains dominate the views to right and left of the Inca
Trail. First seen is Veronica with jagged peaks reaching 18,872
feet. The highest is Salcantay at 20,581 feet. Somewhat farther
off, at the near end of a series of peaks running into the distance beyond
Machu Picchu, is Pumasillo at 19,938 feet. For
the Inca, mountain gods associated with high peaks govern the wild plants
and animals, crops and herds, waters, and people in the surrounding
region. These beliefs persist in the region today, and communities address
to the mountain gods their pleas for good weather and abundant crops and
flocks, while individuals look to them for good health and increased
prosperity. Veronica
is more properly known as Huaca Huillca or Waqaywillca and is also
called China (female) Salcantay. Huaca means sacred and willca
means sacred object. Others say that waqay derives from to cry,
and willki, peak or rock, and that tears is a reference to
the numerous streams that come off the mountain. At Machu Picchu the
equinox sun rises from behind the highest point on Veronica, and the
mountain is highly revered and worshiped for crop and livestock fertility
as well as good health. Veronica and Salcantay are said to speak to one
another with thunder. Salcantay
is considered to be the brother of Ausangate, a high peak east of
Cuzco, and the two are thought to be equally powerful and the fathers of
all the other mountains. Ritual specialists in the area today go to one or
the other for their spiritual empowerment. Reverence for Salcantay, the
name is from salqa meaning wild or uncivilized, is
recorded as early as 1583, and the mountain is still invoked in rituals to
cure illness. Viewed from Machu Picchu, the constellation we call the
Southern Cross, which was also known and of some importance to the Inca,
rises on the east and sets on the west of Salcantay, and at its highest
point is directly above the mountain. Salcantay is viewed as male, and
Veronica is its consort. Pumasillo's
name is straightforward: it means puma's claw, but whether its the
peak's prehispanic name or not is unknown. Today the mountain (the highest
in a series forming what is called Pumasillo range) is locally revered and
invoked for crop and livestock fertility. On the December solstice, one of
most important dates on Inca religious calendar, the sun sets behind
Pumasillo. On the equinoxes it sets behind the last of the snow-capped
peaks in the range. |
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We had good views of Veronica (18,872 feet) the first two days. |
as well as many other mountains
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Llactapata,"village in the highland", is an Inca site at the foot of a mountain situated on the left bank of the Cusichaca River, a tributary of the Urubamba River, and we were about 400 feet above on the right bank. It has many cultivation terraces that probably served to feed people from other places and also keep full the storehouses on the Inca Road. |
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a closer view of Llactapata |
Pulpituyoq Below the terraced city of Llactapata is Pulpituyoq - a place for paying homage to the dead. |
in this & the next 2 pictures you can see that we traveled through different temperate zones |
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in these pictures some of the original Inca paving stones can be seen |
now we are getting high as we are climbing towards Dead Woman's Pass |
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Anne at our 2nd camp - this was our highest camp & it got VERY cold--below freezing Anne has pictures of the trip at her web site |
llamas were grazing near our camp
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Day Three Today was our most challenging day as we crossed 3 passes! First, we climbed the long steep path often up flights of stairs to Warmiwañusca, or Pass of the Dead Woman. At 13,779 feet above sea level, this pass is the highest point of the trek. As we climbed, we traversed several environmental zones - from temperate valley forest to the treeless grasslands of the windswept highlands. The weather was clear and the views of the Cusichaca Valley and the Pacaymayo gorge ahead of us were spectacular. After stopping for the views at the gap and eating a snack we started a rocky descent into the valley and the Pacaymayo river. As we climbed toward the second pass, we encountered the Runkurakay watchtower ruins at 12,464 feet--an Inca tambo or semi-circular watchtower guarding the valley. Then we ascended past the twin lakes of Yanacocha to the second pass at 13,113 feet where there were superb views of the snow-capped glaciated peaks of the Cordillera Vilcabamba. Most of the climb was now behind us, and the trail descended rocky slopes and reached the strategic fortress of Sayacmarca "dominant town" at 12,234 feet. It is dramatically located on the edge of a rocky promontory, but to reach it we had to climb a narrow, steep staircase, and I was VERY tired and running late so I didn't deter to see the ruin. We also passed by Conchamarka, a small, recently discovered tambo. We could see impressive evidence of Inca road construction, with six foot wide and carefully constructed stone-paved trails. The trail went through some beautiful cloud forest on the gentle climb to the third pass, and we walked through a causeway and a tunnel, both original Inca constructions. The highest point of the third pass is 12,135 feet. The trail then climbs up to the 3rd pass (12,200 feet). The view from the pass is stunning with several snow-capped peaks towering above us. That night we camped in Phuyupatamarka at 11,674 feet. Today's trek: 9.5 miles. |
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approaching the first pass |
Dead Woman's Pass at 13,779 feet - looking backwards at Llullucha valley & snow-capped mountains in the distance |
trail on the other side descending towards Pacamayo Valley |
the porters have a BIG load to carry and they move RAPIDLY and happily |
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Delsey, one of our Quechua guides, is watching a long line of porters and hikers climb UP from the first pass. |
just one of the tremendous view |
looking back at the trail through the valley
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some waterfalls that we saw along the trail |
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An Inca tambo (resting place) that was also our resting place. |
a great view of the mountains
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this will give you an idea of the kind of roads the Incas built |
Runkurakay ("Oval Buiding") is an Inca "tambo" built in a semi circular shape that overlooks the valley of Paqaymayu ("Hidden River"). |
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Runkurakay
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a close look at some of the blocks that form the inner circle |
a separate ruin at the site
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Runkurakay overlooks the Pacamayo Valley & you can see the trail leading up to the ruin and then leading down into the pass & back up. |
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Runkurakay Pass |
Sayaqmarka ("Dominant Town") is a magnificient Inca site situated on the edge of a mountain with a panoramic view of the Aobamba Valley. This ruin has narrow mazelike halls. The only access to the site is by a steep, but solid stone staircase built into the edge of the mountain. |
The Incas dug a 20 meter tunnel through solid rock without modern tools and equipment. After the tunnel there is a gentle climb to the Third Pass. |
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Day 4 A shorter day and mostly down hill with about 1300 steps down so we didn't start until 8:30. A few minutes after the pass is Phuyupatamarca, the most impressive Inca ruin so far. The name means 'Town in the Clouds'. Access to the ruins is down a steep flight of stairs passing six 'Inca Baths' probably used for the ritual worship of water. Leaving Phuyupatamarca we descended steeply via several stone staircases, one of them a winding staircase, passing through a second tunnel, and continued along a path above the Urubamba Valley to the jungle-bound ruins of Winaywayna ("forever young"), perched on a promontory above a gorgeous waterfall and featuring a series of ceremonial baths where mountain water still flows through carved stone channels. Perhaps the most beautiful of the citadels along the Inca road, Wiñaywayna is named for an orchid native to the area. Stunningly located on the steep slope overlooking the Urubamba River, the architecture of the complex is truly dazzling. Situated on the ridge of a hanging, hillside valley at an altitude of 8,800 ft., two groups of finely made buildings are connected by a series of 19 baths or fountains, more than any other Inca site. Inca scholar Johan Reinhardt describes the site as a ritual stopping place along the route to Machu Picchu associated with the worship of sacred water. It is a grandiose terraced hillside site, with panoramic views of the valley below and is just a short hike from Intipata, or Sun Place, with its convex series of terraces. Then after about two more hours of trekking we were finally at the Intipunku, or Gate of the Sun, at about 8,860 feet, the entrance to Machu Picchu from the trail. Suddenly, the full grandeur of the world's greatest ruins were revealed, the domed peak of Huayna Picchu (Young Picchu) and the lost City of the Incas, and Machu Picchu (Old Picchu) at 7,900 feet. Nestled between striking peaks high above the Urubamba Valley, Machu Picchu exists as an incomparably well-reconstructed ruin of staircases, terraced hillsides, altars, temples, fountains, and vistas. Today's trek: 6 miles - Dinner and overnight in a BED at the Machu Picchu Inn, located in the small town of Aquas Caliente on the banks of the Urubamba River. |
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Our porters posed for a group picture on the last morning & we gave them our tips. |
These are just the beginning of the 1,300 steps we will be descending today. |
Phuyupatamarka ("Town above the Clouds") This is one of the most singular cities on the Inca Trail. Almost always surrounded by clouds typical of a cloud forest environment, Phuyupatamarka is located on the edge of a gorge that dominates the Urubamba valley. The town has many agricultural terraces and a group of ritual fountains with fresh running water. |
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Phuyupatamarka was an important ceremonial site and enjoyed this commanding view over the Urubamba Valley and the surrounding area. At this point we are going DOWN into the valley and the steep slopes of Machu Picchu can be seen at the far left. |
At the lower part of the site, there is a group of circular and curved buildings that seem to follow the geographic form of the terrain, illustrating the great skill of Inca engineers to harmonize man's labor with nature. |
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You can see a campsite on the right, the Phuyupatamarka ruins across from the campsite and the paved Inca trail going down the valley. |
another view of the valley & part of the ruins
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We then continued our journey downward. |
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Salcantay - The highest of the 3 mountain gods at 20,581 feet. Viewed from Machu Picchu, the constellation we call the Southern Cross, which was important to the Inca, rises on the east and sets on the west of Salcantay, and at its highest point is directly above the mountain. |
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The terraces at the top are the Intipata ruins & the terraces at the bottom are the WinayWayna ruins. (this is our first view of WinayWayna) |
Intipata with its convex terraces |
WinayWayna |
Urubamba Valley |
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You can see the trail on the side of the mountain about 2/3 of the way up. |
Wiñaywayna ("Forever Young") - This site is named after an orchid native to the area, which blooms all year-round and is perhaps one of the most beautiful citadels on the trail. It was built on the steepest side of the valley over the left bank of the Urubamba River & has four main sectors: the urban sector in the lower part of the town, with more that 20 buildings, the ritual fountains sector, the agricultural terraces sector and the tower sector. The last sector has the finest architecture so it was probably a religious or royal quarter. |
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general view |
urban sector |
ritual fountains sector
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tower section
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Wiñay Wayna consists of an upper ceremonial section and a lower living section connected by a long set of steps paralleling a beautiful series of ten liturgical fountains. Both sections are flanked by an enormous sweeping amphitheatre of agricultural terraces. |
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looking down at the Urubamba River through one of the doorways |
looking down on the urban sector from a window in the tower sector |
great view of part of the urban sector, some terraces, the valley, & the river |
winay-wayna orchids |
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one of our guides |
VERY close to the end - climbing the steps to the Intipunku |
Gate of the Sun |
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Machu Picchu Machu Picchu (9,060 feet elevation) was rediscovered in 1911 by Yale archaeologist Hiram Bingham, & is one of the most beautiful and enigmatic ancient sites in the world. While the Inca people erected many hundreds of stone structures from the early 1400's, legends and myths indicate that Machu Picchu (meaning 'Old Peak' in the Quechua language) was revered as a sacred place from a far earlier time. The Inca turned the site into a small (5 square miles) but extraordinary city. Invisible from below and completely self-contained, surrounded by agricultural terraces sufficient to feed the population, and watered by natural springs, Machu Picchu seems to have been utilized by the Inca as a secret ceremonial city. Two thousand feet above the rumbling Urubamba river, the cloud shrouded ruins have palaces, baths, temples, storage rooms and some 150 houses, all in a remarkable state of preservation. These structures, carved from the gray granite of the mountain top are wonders of both architectural and aesthetic genius. Many of the building blocks weigh 50 tons or more yet are so precisely sculpted and fitted together with such exactitude that the mortarless joints will not permit the insertion of even a thin knife blade. Little is known of the social or religious use of the site during Inca times. One of Machu Picchu's primary functions was that of astronomical observatory. The Intihuatana stone (meaning 'Hitching Post of the Sun') has been shown to be a precise indicator of the date of the two equinoxes and other significant celestial periods. The Intihuatana is designed to hitch the sun at the two equinoxes. At midday on March 21st and September 21st, the sun stands almost directly above the pillar, creating no shadow at all. At this precise moment the sun "sits with all his might upon the pillar" and is for a moment "tied" to the rock. At these periods, the Incas held ceremonies at the stone in which they "tied the sun" to halt its northward movement in the sky. There is also an Intihuatana alignment with the December solstice (the summer solstice of the southern hemisphere), when at sunset the sun sinks behind Pumasillo (the Puma's claw), the most sacred mountain of the western Vilcabamba range, but the shrine itself is primarily equinoctial. Intihuatana stones were the supremely sacred objects of the Inca people and were systematically searched for and destroyed by the Spaniards. When the Intihuatana stone was broken at an Inca shrine, the Inca believed that the deities of the place died or departed. The Spaniards never found Machu Picchu, even though they suspected its existence, thus the Intihuatana stone and its resident spirits remain in their original position. |
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my first view of Machu Picchu |
group photo |
more views from the Gate of the Sun & the walk down to the entrance/exit where we took a bus to Aquas Caliente here & in the row below |
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The hotel where we stayed at Aquas Caliente. |
The restaurant where we ate lunch before catching the train. |
one of the shopping streets in Aquas Caliente |
a statue of the Inca who is believed to have built Machu Picchu - Pachakuti |
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map of Machu Picchu |
the road to Machu Picchu from Aquas Caliente |
an overall view looking south with Old or "Machu" Picchu mountain in the background (i.e., "Machu" Picchu is the name of the mountain as well as the ruins) |
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This view looks north across the site from beside the Hut of the Caretaker instead of south and has Young or "Huayna" Picchu in the background . |
This view shows part of the courtyard and the residences in the upper part of the urban sector. |
Principal Temple or Temple of 6 Windows - It has a massive "altar" stone and its quality and central location indicate great ceremonial importance. Ground settling has caused severe sinking of the east side of the building. |
The circular building near the tree is the Temple of the Sun and the Royal Residence is next to it. Also one residence has the traditional thatch roof. |
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In this view you can see the ONLY entrance door to Machu Picchu in this picture. |
The Principal Temple is in the foreground. |
agricultural sector |
workmen are repairing the agricultural terraces |
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The urban sector is subdivided into two parts with a large public square between them. The Hanan (upper) and Hurin (lower) halves were probably occupied by different kinship groups. Most of the ceremonial architecture--the Principal Temple, Temple of 3 Windows, and the Intiwatana--are in the Hanan part. |
Good overall view - lower part of urban sector with Intiwantana sector behind it and the ONLY entrance door to Machu Picchu is shown in the left foreground. This door could be barred in case of attack. |
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the entrance door with the watchman's hut in the background |
the entrance door |
the watchman's hut at the top of the terraces |
This is the Sacred Rock which is one of the echo stones at Machu Picchu. Note the similarity in the form of the rock and the mountain behind the rock. For many people the rock concentrates great energetic power. |
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An echo stone at the entrance to the Intiwatana. This sculpture was carved by an Inca artist to conform to the shape of the mountains across the valley. Apparently it was important for this to be seen before entering the site of the Intiwatana. |
There are other echo stones at Machu Picchu which seem to represent Wayna Picchu, the Southern Cross, and other prominent natural features. Numerous relics of the Inca religion and 'echo stones' appear to mirror the shapes of the peaks around them. For example, they carved the upper edge of the stone at the top temple to echo almost perfectly the surrounding mountains and the river coursing around them. The 'hitching post of the sun', smoothed and weathered, is so deliberate in its shape - yet, at first, it jars with its surroundings. Until, one day at the winter solstice, it all makes sense, and the sun rises to hit the highest stone. And the 'sacred rock' (see previous picture), more a megalith, perhaps seven meters across, three high at its peak, but only one or so thick. At that size, atop this hill, it would be remarkable in itself. Special certainly, sacred perhaps. But it's only when you stand back, look up, take in the peaks in the distance, that you realize the stone's upper edge echoes the shape of the peak directly across from it - but about a mile away from it. |
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House of 3 Windows viewed from the plaza area. The extremely large blocks in the lower wall are part of a terrace. The floor in the room is a few feet below the windows. |
The numbers on these blocks indicate that this wall has been reconstructed. |
This view is looking into the Urubamba Canyon, in the direction of sunrise. |
The Torreon or Sun Temple. The window is perfectly aligned to the sunrise point of the June solstice. On the morning of June 21 a patch of sunlight within the temple is perfectly bisected by a line cut into the bedrock. |
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Nusta Palace - This two-story building is next to the Temple of the Sun and its walls are beautifully inclined inward. The delicacy of its finishing and it closeness to the temple made researchers suppose that a princess lived here. |
one of the streets with the watchman's hut visible at the top |
the rings on the edge & the posts on the outside were used to attach the thatch roof |
Fredy, our guide, is using this discarded but rock marked by the Incas to explain how they split rocks. |
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the frontal wall of the Temple of the Sun lies on the rock that serves as a facade to the Royal Tomb, where a natural rock formation was molded to create a finely finished stone mausoleum |
closeup of the royal tomb |
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a courtyard leading to the royal residence |
one of the rooms in the royal residence |
a rough wall used for common buildings is shown on the left and a smooth wall used for temples & royal buildings on the right
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The carved rock suggests the head and neck-ruff of a condor while the natural rock behind may have represented the wings. |
carved condor rock |
Southern Cross - It is believed that this carved rock had an astronomic function as it represents the Southern Cross constel-lation and points in the constellation's direction. |
The Intiwatana |
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The Intiwatana The Intiwatana or "the sun´s hitching-post", is located at the top of the "Sacred Hill", formed by a number of platforms and terraces, and accessed by a 78-step stairway up to an open courtyard with finely worked walls. The Intiwatana performed two functions: measuring time (solstice and equinox) from the sun's rays, and serving as an altar. On one of the terraces there are three steps carved out of the granite, and at the center there is a carved and polished monolith, consisting of a series of flat surfaces and ending in a four-sided prism 0.36 meters in height , with a northeast - southwest orientation. Its corners point to the four points of the compass. This stone is the center and most important part of a complex system for making astronomical measurements to determine the beginning and end of the harvest cycle and was also apparently used as a ritual altar. It has a polygonal shape, like an almost cubical polyhedron. Originally, all the faces of this stone must have had a mirror-smooth finish. Intiwatana may be translated as "the hitching-post of the sun" or simply "the sun's clasp". On the winter solstice (June 21), the quechuas celebrated the Inti Raymi, (Sun Festival). This was the Inca culture's most important celebration. On that day, the sun is at its farthest from the earth. For this reason, the quechuas were afraid that their "Tayta Inti, Sun Father would abandon them and held a number of different rituals to beg the sun not to leave them, including a symbolic "hitching" or "mooring" of the sun to the Intiwatana. However, Intiwatana has another possible meaning. Since Inti means "sun" and Wata means "year", the word could also be translated as "the place where the solar year is adjusted ". Undoubtedly, it was also used for the purpose of predicting and measuring the solstices and equinoxes (the seasons), and therefore of establishing sowing and harvesting times. |
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View from the House of Three Windows area across the plaza. The foreground terracing separates the upper and lower plazas. The Urubamba River passes far below, to the right of the peak in the background, flowing towards the ruins and then around the base of Huaynu Picchu. |
At the end of a series of peaks running into the distance beyond Machu Picchu, is Pumasillo at 19,938 feet. Pumasillo's name is straightforward: it means puma's claw. Even today the mountain (the highest in a series forming what is called Pumasillo range) is locally revered and invoked for crop and livestock fertility. On the December solstice, one of most important dates on the Inca religious calendar, the sun sets behind Pumasillo. On the equinoxes it sets behind the last of the snow-capped peaks in the range. |
If you climb Huayna Picchu you get a different view of Machu Picchu, and I wanted to climb it but there wasn't enough time so I found this picture on the web to get an idea of what I missed. |
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below Machu Picchu lies the sinuous gorge of the Urubamba with the river and what look like toy trains and tracks |
another view of the Urubamba gorge |
The Inca Trail and the railroad tracks from Aquas Caliente to Cuzco are shown in this map. |
to view the pictures I took of the rainforest, Cuzco & the Sacred Valley, and Lake Titicaca click here
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