Northern Tier Section 5

Havre, MT to Minot, ND

July 10 to July 17, 2010

469 miles with ______ feet of elevation gain

Date

Location

Miles

Section 5
July 10	Malta, MT	90
July 11	Glasgow, MT	71
July 12	Wolf Point, MT	53
July 13	Culbertson, MT	57
July 14	Williston, ND	45
July 15	New Town, ND	74
July 16	Minot, ND	73
July 17	Minot, ND rest day	0

The Adventure Cycling map below shows part of the 4th section and all of the 5th section.

Section 5 - I rode _____ miles

Day 22 Day 23 Day 24 Day 25 Day 26 Day 27 Day 28 Day 29

Day 22 - July 10, 2010

Havre, MT to Malta, MT - 90 miles

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for more info on Malta click here weather forecast for Malta

The Great Plains Dinosaur Museum and Field Station located on Highway 2 East of Malta next to the Phillips County Museum sounds very interesting, but we are riding 92 miles today so I don't think I will have time to visit it. Year-round hours: Monday - Saturday from 10:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. and Sundays from 12:30 p.m. to 5:00 p.m.

Since today was a long day we had breakfast at 5:30 and started by 6 am. Everything was going well until the wind shifted and picked up speed about mile 60. By mile 75 it was blowing very strongly, and I was having trouble maintaining a 6 mph speed and staying on the road as the wind was coming at me at an angle--not exactly a cross wind and not a direct head wind either. By mile 80 the wind had deceased some and my speed had increased to 9 mph, but when the sag driver drove by and asked if I wanted to stop--I thought that sounded pretty good. At the speed I was going it would take me at least another hour to get in which means I would be tired for tomorrow's 72 mile ride and beside the sag driver couldn't quit until all riders were in. So for her sake AND mine I sagged the last 9 miles. The motel is OK, but even the first floor rooms are up one flight of stairs. The sag driver carried my bike up after getting it down off the Subaru's roof mounted bike rack

I split the 90 mile day into 2 laps on my garmin so the data would be easily to read. The first chart (or Lap 1) shows approximately 55 miles and the second chart the next 35 miles; however, I did turn it off near the end and forgot to turn it back on.

map of Havre to Malta route & as you can see we were on US 2 all day

this map made of license plates was in the lobby of our motel

Day 23 - July 11, 2010

Malta, MT to Glasgow, MT - 71 miles

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for more info on Glasgow click here weather forecast for Glasgow

The Fort Peck Dam sound very interesting. The World Almanac lists Fort Peck Dam as the largest embankment dam in the United States with the fifth largest man-made reservoir. It is also the second largest volume embankment dam and the largest "hydraulic fill" dam in the world. Another intriguing aspect of Fort Peck Dam and Lake, is that it's widely recognized by scientists as one of the most fossiliferous localities in the world. Between 1907 and 1914, the rich Fort Peck fossil field was revealed to the world through the discoveries of Dr. Barnum Brown, a leading authority on dinosaurs. His finds include some of the most outstanding fossil discoveries of all time, most of which were assembled at the American Museum of Natural History in New York. The most spectacular findings include the only skeleton of the akylosaurus ever found, and the skeleton of the tyrannosaurus rex, the flesh-eating king of the dinosaurs. More than 400 specimens - including the massive skull of a triceratops - are on display at the museum inside the Fort Peck power plant. Models and exhibits which focus on the building, operation, and benefits of Fort Peck Dam are located in the adjacent power plant lobby. Actually the Fort Peck site would be a side trip on tomorrow's ride not today's and to be truthful it didn't sound interesting enough for 16 extra miles.

Today we were suppose to eat breakfast at 7 am and leave shortly afterwards, but it was raining and our guides changed the plans. Instead of Linda cooking breakfast and us carrying it back to our rooms or eating it in the motel garage or muddy parking lot, she said we could order from the blue side of the menu in the motel cafe. She also said we wouldn't be leaving until shortly after 8 in the hope that the rain would quit. It wasn't raining hard when I started, but it continued to rain for about 2 hours and it was a cold rain. When it stopped I kept my rain gear on for a while as it was chilly. Eventually I removed my rain pants and jacket and put them in the Subaru at the next sag stop. At the 3rd sag stop I was tired of fighting the constant bugs and climbing the fairly constant hills, so I called it quits and sagged in the last 10 miles. Also it was finally beginning to get very hot.

map of Malta to Glasgow route & again we were on US 2 all day

Garmin chart for Malta to Glasgow

The Bears Paw Mountains in north central Montana are one of the more intriguing mountains in the state. The Bear Paw Mountains are located about 20-30 miles south of US Highway 2, between Havre and Chinook. The Bears Paw Mountains run for about 40 miles in distance from east to west and are about 20 miles in distance from north to south.

Bear Paw Battlefield, one of several units of the US National Park Service's Nez Perce National Historical Park, is located 16 miles south of Chinook, Montana on Route 240 (Cleveland Road). Following the breakout of war in Idaho, nearly 800 Nez Perce spent a long and arduous summer fleeing U.S. Army troops first toward Crow allies and then toward refuge in Canada. Forty miles short of the Canadian border and following a five-day battle and siege, the Nez Perce ceased fighting at Bear Paw on October 5th, 1877, in which Chief Joseph gave his immortal speech: “From where the sun now stands, I will fight no more forever.”

Cattle Brands in Montana

Cree Crossing

Sleeping Buffalo Rock

Liquid Gold

Buffalo Country

Day 24 - July 12, 2010

Glasgow, MT to Wolf Point, MT - 53 miles

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for more info on Wolf Point click here weather forecast for Wolf Point

The history of the Wolf Point area goes back many years to when a traveler on the river, in 1842, noted in his journals the many wolves sighted near old Wolf Point. Several fur trading forts were operated in the area by the American Fur Company. One was Fort Charles, located near the present site of the Missouri River Bridge. Other sites have been discovered, but the names are unknown. In the 1860's and 1870's when the river steamboat was the principle mode of travel, Wolf Point was a refueling point as well as an Indian trading post. During the 1870's winter trappers stacked their wolf hides along the river to wait for spring and for the steamboats to transport their cargo to markets in the East. The name "Wolf Point" was here to stay.

The little trading post grew into a small hamlet of several hundred in population. The railroad came to the area in the late 1880's and soon the romantic river boats were gone forever. In 1912, the Fort Peck Indian Reservation was opened to homesteaders and the town of Wolf Point moved from the river bank to the railroad, about one mile North. Today, the town has grown into a modern shopping center and is known throughout the United States for its "Wild Horse Stampede". The stampede is Montana's oldest and best rodeo and is held during the second weekend of July each year.

Wolf Point is the county seat of Roosevelt County and is the largest city in the county, boasting a population of 3,000 residents. Located in the Southwest corner of Roosevelt County in the historic Missouri River Valley, Wolf Point is the trade center for Northeast Montana.

The ride did not start well today as there was a strong headwind which made it seemed like I was climbing a 2-3% hill all the time. At first my speed was less than 7 mph, but then I shifted gears and brought my speed up to 9.5. I felt that was going to be it for today unless the wind shifted or lessened so it was going to be a LONG day. I was seriously thinking about sagging when Linda came by with the van and trailer. However only 3 miles out when 3 riders were passing me, the last rider and I collided--our tires touched and that is all it takes to topple bikes. She fell to the left on the roadway, and I fell to the right on the grass and dirt. The force of the fall unclipped my shoes, and I bumped my right elbow, the side of my head, and cut my lip. No serious problems, but I didn't feel like riding any more. The sag driver put a bandage on my elbow and got me some ice for the two goose eggs I had on the arm. My lip looks bad, but doesn't hurt much. I will have to see how it feel when I eat tonight. After taking a shower Linda put some Polysporin and a new bandage on my elbow. Right now I plan to ride tomorrow, but Michelle hasn't looked at my bike yet, and I will have to see how sore I am tomorrow. The bike is OK except one of the rear view mirrors broke. .

map of Glasgow to Wolf Point route - today we were off US 2 for a big part of the route

since I didn't ride except for 3 miles I don't have a garmin chart and am using Jane's chart to give you some idea of the elevation profile of the ride

the two walking wounded shortly after the collision

Day 25 - July 13, 2010

Wolf Point, MT to Culbertson, MT - 57

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for more info on Culbertson click here weather forecast for Culbertson

Culbertson is located in Northeastern Montana, 23 miles from the North Dakota line and 60 miles from the Canadian border. The Lewis and Clark Trail goes through the area. The Culbertson Museum is open every day from 8 to 8 in June and July and is located 1 mile east of town on US Highway 2.

We had a strong tail wind today and we also were off of US 2 part of the day and on Montana 1. I rode and had no problems when I was riding, but it hurt when I stopped and got off the bike as that put stress on my shoulder and the muscles in my rib cage. The shoulder is the worse; I must have bruised it. I also have a sore place on the side of my right foot, but it doesn't hurt riding or walking. All things considered I am fine--the lip is the worse and it is a little better and doesn't hurt much.

map of Wolf Point to Culbertson route

Garmin chart for Wolf Point to Culbertson

interesting rock formations along Route 1 shortly after the 2nd sag stop

Day 26 - July 14, 2010

Culbertson, MT to Williston, ND - 45 miles

(back to beginning of section 5)

for more info on Williston click here weather forecast for Williston

Williston is the county seat of Williams County, and the population was 12,512 at the 2000 census. Founded in 1887, Williston was named for Daniel Willis James, a board member of the Northern Pacific Railroad Company, by his friend, railroad owner, James J. Hill.

We have four riders in our group who did the Lewis and Clark tour with WomanTours and spoke very favorably about the beauty and significance of the place where the Missouri and Yellowstone Rivers join and the Yellowstone is absorbed by the Missouri. By taking a short 20-25 mile detour we could visit this site and several of us wanted to see it. Michelle had two of the sag drivers check the route out so we would have a route sheet. When she gave the cue sheet to us she explained that since today was such a short day there would be only one sag stop for the regular route and at mile 25 we would have to make a choice to stay on the regular route and go straight into Williston on US 2 or to make a right turn on County Road 5 where there was a sign pointing the way to the Confluence and Fort Buford--this route would total 61 miles--and the sag would support it. I definitely wanted to see the confluence so it was an easy decision for me.

However there was a STRONG west wind today which was OK when we were going east on US 2, but it became a terrible crosswind when we turned south onto CR 5. Several turned onto the road and quickly gave it up when they realized the strength of the crosswind--several others successfully made it to the Confluence and back to US 2. I rode 3 miles and was determined to ride all the way, but Linda, the sag driver, came back to check on everyone and when she got to me I quickly agreed to a sag ride to the confluence location. From there I intended to ride my bike on to Williston as the return route was curved some and was not directly north. However when I was done seeing the exhibits at the Interpretive Center Michelle and Linda were there with the van and trailer so I rode back with them while Linda stayed to support the other riders.

When we got to the motel Linda said she couldn't cook dinner as the wind was too strong so she made arrangements for us to eat in a nearby restaurant. So a map meeting was scheduled for 5:45 with dinner at 6 and the margarita party for crossing a state border was postponed. When we met at 5:45 Linda told us the wind today was 20-30 mph with gusts of 40. She said Michelle was out in the Subaru trying to find a route for us for tomorrow's ride to New Town as the planned route goes over roads that due to construction and heavy traffic in the area that was not present when this trip was planned make the route too dangerous. Also the police stopped the group that is one day ahead of us from riding on one of the roads because it was too dangerous. Thus we will get the cue sheet for tomorrow's ride at breakfast and will probably all be sagged over the final portion of the route.

we entered our last state for this trip - we will end in Fargo this year and begin in Fargo next year

Missouri-Yellowstone Confluence Interpretive Center

an explanation of the 4 forts built in this area

a picture showing the present location of the Missouri and Yellowstone rivers and their location when Lewis and Clark saw them - it also shows the location of each of the 4 forts

this sign was on the shore above the confluence

an explanation of Lewis and Clark's visit

my picture of the confluence with the Yellowstone in the upper middle of the picture and the Missouri in the foreground

an aerial view of the confluence

Lewis' view and a quote from him

Captain Lewis sighting the Yellowstone

Military Reservation Preserves Confluence

Fort Buford - a New Presence on a Changing Frontier

The Changing Missouri River

Day 27 - July 15, 2010

Williston, ND to New Town, ND - 74 miles

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weather forecast for New Town

New Town is a friendly community of about 1,500 people located in the “Heart of Lake Sakakawea."

Years ago when this land was opened for settlement there was flooding up and down the Missouri River every spring. In 1944 Congress authorized the Garrison Dam and Reservoir Project. The purpose of the dam was to provide flood control; provide for irrigation; produce hydroelectric power; provide means of diversion eastward to the James and Sheyenne River basins; and to provide facilities for recreation and for fish and wildlife preservation. The reservoir would form a lake 200 miles long, 14 miles wide at some points and have about 1,500 miles of shoreline. Those living in southern Mountrail County were aware that Sanish would have to be evacuated and relocated before the dam was completed. It was not until 1948 and early 1949 that the people of Van Hook realized that all the fertile farmland from the village to the Missouri River would be a lake and the town itself on a peninsula. This area was to be the widest part of the reservoir. Van Hook decided to send a delegation to Washington, D.C., to present their problem to Congress. Van Hook requested that the government buy the town, giving the people the same chance to relocate as was given to Sanish. The bill approved by Congress promised Van Hook all the help and support that was to be given to Sanish in relocating their town.

The two towns had a common problem--where to move? Sanish had a population of not quite 500, and Van Hook's population was closer to 400. The idea of combining the towns gained popularity. With the combination of the assets of the two towns and the federal funds available, it would be possible to build a new, modern town with water and sewer facilities. One town would be better than two little villages similar to Van Hook and Sanish. Someone suggested the new town should be called Vanish after the two towns. Sanhook was also a suggestion. Finally it was decided to form a non-profit organization to carry out plans for the proposed town. A total of seven possible sites were inspected before the present site was chosen. After the selection of the site the land was purchased for $75.00 an acre from Anna Wuttke of Minot. Following the purchase of this property, plans quickly were developed for the proposed town. The Army engineers promised to help plan the new town and assist the people with legal and engineering help. They agreed to plat the site, plan highways and streets and build them or finance the building of streets, alleys and sidewalks.

By August 1950 the combined townsite was platted. On September 10, 1950, a groundbreaking ceremony and celebration was held at the proposed townsite. The official groundbreaking was a furrow cut by a county road grader in what was to become Main Street. Signs along the way proclaimed "This way to the new town OR "This is the site of the new town to be made up of Van Hook and Sanish. Though in the early planning stages of the town it had been noted that the name of the new town was to be selected by its citizens--the name of the town was never proposed or voted on. It was known, as a new town in the beginning and in time became New Town to all. Following the platting of the townsite and its dedication, the sale of lots began on October 27, 1950. The first lot was sold to Mrs. Nora E. Lenartz and she also built the first home in New Town. The first two days of the lot sale over 60 percent of the lots were sold, which was very encouraging to the Relocation Co. The future residents of the new town were very enthusiastic, too. When the town was platted the location of the school was designated in the plans. It was a very, desirable location, centrally located. The school area was not sold, but presented as a gift to the school district. The congregations of the various denominations in Van Hook and Sanish had been uniting and organizing as one congregation to carry on the work of the churches in New Town. Each church group was given the gift of a lot for their new church by the Relocation Co. Several elections were held to determine the wishes of the citizens of Sanish and Van Hook. The first election in 1951 was to decide whether or not the village governments of each town would be dissolved as of April 30, 1953. This passed by a great majority in both towns. Two weeks later another election was held and the electors voted, again by a decisive majority, to transfer the assets of both villages to the new town.

The towns of Sanish and Van Hook were officially dissolved as of April 30, 1953, and July 1, 1953 was the deadline given the residents to be moved out of their respective towns. In the fall of 1953, school opened for New Town students. Grades 1, 2, 4 and 5 were in the Community Hall. Grade 3 in a rural schoolhouse moved near the hall. Grades 6 through 12 had classes in the school building at Sanish. Families provided their own transportation. The new school was ready in September 1954, and dedicated April 15, 1955. Enrollment was 432. The first scheduled train arrived at New Town September 22, 1953. By 1955 the town had grown to about 1,400 residents. The discovery of oil in our part of the state led to the development of oil fields in our vicinity. This brought many people into the community. Work on the new bridge, roads, and construction in the town with the drilling for oil made jobs plentiful. A major improvement to New Town during this period was the paving of the streets. The new bridge across the reservoir was completed and opened for travel in October 1955. It was named Four Bears after two great Indian chiefs, a Mandan and a Hidatsa, who bore the same name.

New Town is located on State Highway 23 at the crossing of Lake Sakakawea by the Four Bears Bridge.

Day 28 - July 16, 2010

New Town, ND to Minot, ND - 73 miles

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weather forecast for Minot

Minot is a “micropolitan” city that approximately 37000 people proudly call their home. It is the fourth largest city in North Dakota.

From its humble beginnings as a small railroad town, Minot, ND has grown to become a dynamic "micropolitan" community. Indeed, Minot earned national recognition for its selection as a 1992 All America City by the National Civic League. The Ward County seat and fourth largest community in North Dakota, Minot was founded in 1887 when the Great Northern Railroad made its way through the prairie.

Day 29 - July 17, 2010

Minot, ND - 5th rest day

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